Hard start/excessive cranking

[99MPower]

Originally Posted by epj3

BUT STILL CHECK YOUR COOLANT TEMP SENSOR


lolololtroll

fcuking cracky :facepalm:

[JPoland]

Whomever suggested checking the fuel system is a smart cookie (now I want cookies).

Someone pay Eric 1 monopoly dollar.

[jayjaya29]

oh my

[Roland H]

Check your RTABs too, you never know...

[epj3]

I'll check my spare tire pressure as well, you never know what effect this could have on your hot start issue.


I don't want cookies, I'm trying to get not-fat before July when my girlfriend will have to see me without a shirt, during the daytime.

[epj3]

Originally Posted by JPoland

Whomever suggested checking the fuel system is a smart cookie (now I want cookies).

Someone pay Eric 1 monopoly dollar.

You give yourself $1 Monopoly Mr. Smarty Pants.

[JPoland]

Originally Posted by epj3

You give yourself $1 Monopoly Mr. Smarty Pants.

I didn't bet my Monopoly money though (should have). You called the check valve. I only suggested insufficient fuel pressure.

[cracky]

oh look another little bitch trying to take emulate 99mpowerdouchnozzle.
There is always a list of things which can cause issues, especially when playing emechanic. You should always check for fuel and spark to begin with anyways... and then go from there.

There are two ways for it to fail. Shot circuit (ecu will always think it's cold) or broken circuit (ecu will always think its hot). Either way, the ECU is programmed to run without this information just like it can run with any other one sensor failed/absent (except for cam and crank position sensors)

this is flat out just...wrong. So as I suggested before. You should maybe check into how these things work.

and quit being a shit bag.

[eatsleeplax]

appropriate gif

[PurduinaM3]

Originally Posted by cracky

oh look another little bitch trying to take emulate 99mpowerdouchnozzle.
There is always a list of things which can cause issues, especially when playing emechanic. You should always check for fuel and spark to begin with anyways... and then go from there.


this is flat out just...wrong. So as I suggested before. You should maybe check into how these things work.

and quit being a shit bag.

So tell us, how does it work then?

[das borgen]

Originally Posted by jayjaya29

Found this video:
BMW E36 FUEL PUMP TEST & TROUBLESHOOT PART 2 - YouTube

So its most likely the check valve and he gives a BMW P/N with a hose with a check valve in line. It costs like $3, gonna order it.

that is an excellent and informative video

[das borgen]

Originally Posted by jayjaya29

Done deal, its definitively the check valve in the pump.

I turned the fuel pump on with a jump wire, got 50psi at the gauge, i clamped the fuel pump supply line with a pair of vice grips at the fuel pump. Then I removed the jumper wire and the pressure held at 50 psi until I released the vice grips.

Gonna pick up P/N 16-14-9-068-988 and throw it on.

Took a look at the left hand tank sender it was visibly wet with gas, must have a hairline crack it in someplace, will replace eventually.

as an FYI to all P/N 16-14-9-068-988 does NOT shopw up on realoem but I check on TheBMWPartStore - The BMW Part Store, The BMW Part Store dot com, BMW Genuine Parts, Get BMW Parts Here, Real BMW Part site and it shows $2.77.... My car does not have this problem but I will remember this, since my knowledge of fuel systems is fairly limited.

also, in the interim, one could simply cycle the key on/off a bunch of times prior to starting until the check valve is replaced...no?

[epj3]

Originally Posted by cracky

oh look another little bitch trying to take emulate 99mpowerdouchnozzle.
There is always a list of things which can cause issues, especially when playing emechanic. You should always check for fuel and spark to begin with anyways... and then go from there.


this is flat out just...wrong. So as I suggested before. You should maybe check into how these things work.

and quit being a shit bag.

It's a thermistor. This is what happens when they fail?!!??!! How am I wrong? First off if it were the coolant temp sensor, his GAUGE would be reading improperly! Duh!!!! Secondly, I WELCOME you to disconnect your coolant temp sensor and drive the car. I guarantee it'll run 98% as well as it did before. This is because engineers (far smarter than yourself) developed ways to deal with a problematic sensor of ANY kind. Since you called me out on something so simple, here ya go.

The most common failure mode of a thermistor
is an open circuit, as shown in
Table 1. The cause of such failures are usually
due to mechanical separation between the
resistor element and the lead material, caused
by handling damage, excessive heat, thermal
mismatch, etc

http://www.navsea.navy.mil/nswc/cran...hermistors.pdf Page 2, shitbag.


Why do I always have to deal with "my shifter is hot" people on car forums?!?!?! This is why I send text messages or call people if I have a car problem rather than post, because of shit head like you spewing your non-information all over the place and wasting both time and bandwidth.

[jayjaya29]

Originally Posted by das borgen

as an FYI to all P/N 16-14-9-068-988 does NOT shopw up on realoem but I check on TheBMWPartStore - The BMW Part Store, The BMW Part Store dot com, BMW Genuine Parts, Get BMW Parts Here, Real BMW Part site and it shows $2.77.... My car does not have this problem but I will remember this, since my knowledge of fuel systems is fairly limited.

also, in the interim, one could simply cycle the key on/off a bunch of times prior to starting until the check valve is replaced...no?

So 16149068988 is NLA, I placed an order through thebmwpartstore and they can't find it.

Cycling the ignition will do nothing, it doesn't hold fuel pressure after the fuel pump is turned off.

[cracky]

LOL your such a shit bag. Ridiculous attitude from the get go.

and thanks for the basics on a thermistor lmao, but they can fail in a variety of ways. And going by your logic the car has no need for sensors and would run just fine when any number of them fail...or wait, maybe it doesnt work that way.

The car gets coolant temp from more than one place.Just because an ETC is malfunctioning doesnt mean the temp gauge wont be working correctly.

You sound like this is your first car. Talk about wasting bandwidth. You dont know jack shit about how the system works that much if obvious.

Keep preaching how a bad ETC cant cause hard start problems.... in the meantime I suggest again...you research how they work and what the ecu actually uses that information for and what happens when that info coming in is bad.


Plenty of information on the net for you to refer to.

Funny how I have direct experience with this type of failure on multiple cars AND at work lol engineer wut.

Youre just talking out your ass.

Stop acting like the typical little bitch on this forum.