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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2006, 09:45 PM
Master License
 
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Chip Burn Software

Whaddup...

Can anyone recommend a good local area tuning shop that does custom chip burning software for M3's? Or are they only available out of state?

Once I get my supercharger back, I'd need to schedule an appointment to have a new chip burned so it runs smooth.

I wonder how much it is though

ThX FoR InFo.
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Old 03-22-2006, 10:49 PM
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.... good question but im pretty sure its out of state thing.. you gotta contact nickG
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Old 03-22-2006, 11:28 PM
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i would contact aa and have them burn you a chip or you can get teh teck3
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:22 AM
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Standalone FTW!

Price tag $$ FTL
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:24 AM
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for teh win
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andres
Standalone FTW!

Price tag $$ FTL
you got to pay to play
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Old 03-23-2006, 02:15 AM
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dont fuck around contact nickG.
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Old 03-23-2006, 05:09 PM
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Old 04-01-2006, 08:08 PM
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hey,

Well, I did contact Nick G and not much he can do

Here is his reply:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Unfortunately, I don't have any software for a setup like that.

If the AFRs suddenly went bad, then obviously something is mechanically
wrong.

Nick

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Can anyone recommend any other places that would do custom chip or custom software? Also, what could "trigger" Air Fuel ratio to go bad all of a sudden?

Thanks in advance for reliable information.

Eric.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 943184dr
NickG
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Old 04-01-2006, 11:18 PM
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AA, nickG(techniquetuning), and ICS are the only player that have extensive knowledge of remapping the stock dme for force induction application.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dredder
AA, nickG(techniquetuning), and ICS are the only player that have extensive knowledge of remapping the stock dme for force induction application.
Well I found out that just becuase the A/F reading is bad, doesn't mean the software is bad, there could be other factors that cause A/F to go lean. I just have to find out who can diagnose locally.

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Old 04-06-2006, 10:19 AM
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well check ur fuel management system.. HFM and 02's under the car
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuiickSilver
well check ur fuel management system.. HFM and 02's under the car

Oxygen sensor was changed 2months ago, what exactly is HFM?

P.S. IS THERE A TOOL THAT YOU CAN GET THAT WILL CHECK FOR AIR/FUEL RATIO ? ? ?

THX.
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Old 04-07-2006, 10:58 AM
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I believe you have Alex's old car correct which I know very well and have put some wrench time into. He has an a/f gauge in there so you can get an idea of whats happening by looking on that.
Nick is correct in saying that you should diagnose what is causing the AFRs to suddenly go bad. Are you running too rich or too lean?
Before running out and getting software that may or may not solve the issue, you really need to understand what is going on.
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Old 04-07-2006, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SCharged
Oxygen sensor was changed 2months ago, what exactly is HFM?

P.S. IS THERE A TOOL THAT YOU CAN GET THAT WILL CHECK FOR AIR/FUEL RATIO ? ? ?

THX.
HFM is the high-flow air meter. Do you really need to ask this as you have it quoted in your signaute?? It SHOULD throw a code if its not working, but it won't always. Just like O2's. So to test it, swap in a known working one and see how it runs.

For A/F, you should get a wideband sensor and gauge. Such as this: Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit. That is the wideband I will be going with when I go FI.
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Old 04-07-2006, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TYE
I believe you have Alex's old car correct which I know very well and have put some wrench time into. He has an a/f gauge in there so you can get an idea of whats happening by looking on that.
Nick is correct in saying that you should diagnose what is causing the AFRs to suddenly go bad. Are you running too rich or too lean?
Before running out and getting software that may or may not solve the issue, you really need to understand what is going on.
Yes that use to be his car. I use to be getting the oxygen sensor and knock sensor codes, now it seems that I get the 1444 code, which means all codes are clear. I changed the oxygen sensor for a brand new.
Supposidly the car runs LEAN. I do have the autometer A/F gauge, but that gauge just blinks back and forth from green to red and doesn't stay on the same spot and is hard to tell what's going on from those readings.
I'd have to get something better.
I need to find a decent place that would diagnose the problem.
Thanks.
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