Going for a full-race BMW. FEEDBACK NEEDED.

[philsans5]

Originally Posted by deep throat

What are the parts mostly prone to track damage, i.e. weakpoints in the E36.

Headgaskets (supposedly the stewart water pump fixes that), rear subframe floorboard mounts, Rear trailing arm mounts. I'll think of some more, gotta go finish the MINI race car!!

[philsans5]

Diff bolt but there're a couple of fixes for that. It seems like a euro motored E36 would be your best bet, and it's got most of what we upgrade to anyways. GT3 p cars are a bitch no matter what you do to a NA BMW, but they aren't impossible to beat.

[e30man]

i was thinking you were talking about scca c-mod, but i see your in the middle east. you'll have to elaborate on the class your running. are you talking about bmwcc c-mod class.

[e30man]

i always like the e30 as opposed to the e36. for starters its lighter and i think it has a better suspension than the e36. i dont have very much experience with the e36 though.

[deep throat]

That's the thing man, we still don't have such specific classes here. For the time being anything goes; the faster, lighter, grippier, the better. Think of it as a "We can do it" statement. Once our local club is up and running, we'll do the classes.

Philisans5: Thanks alot, those are what I had in mind. However, could you elaborate more on the "rear subframe floorboard mounts" and diff bolts? GT3s are really hard to beat, seen what they do on the track provided they're with real drivers. This kid had his daddy buy him the new 997 GT3 RS, car drove off the track more than it did on it!!

[Defacto]

Keep in mind that an E30 is less aerodynamic than a set of parachutes...and that the rear suspension is not superior to that of an E36...might be more entertaining...but in terms of geometry, it doesn't match up.

[philsans5]

Originally Posted by Defacto

Keep in mind that an E30 is less aerodynamic than a set of parachutes...and that the rear suspension is not superior to that of an E36...might be more entertaining...but in terms of geometry, it doesn't match up.

yep, what he said. They're a brick in the wind and full of rust and frozen bolts. I loved mine, but it drove me nuts working on it. But yeah, I got my E30 down to 1980 lbs wet w/ driver.

[philsans5]

Floor board mounts shouldn't be an issue with an M. The non M cars didn't come with the reinforcement tabs from the factory. The floorboard tears where the subframe mates to it. The rear trailing arm mounts problem are the three bolts holes that are in the body. They only got a couple of tack welds. Those need to be welded solid. The diff bolt is the one closest to the driveshaft. It's long and silver with a weird thread pattern. It backs off a little and shears easily. Grab a 1/2 grade 10 or better bolt (I forget the length) and drill the mount out and tap the diff casing. Make the bolt long enough to pass through and shave the casing a little to get a nut on the back. Voila, double nutted. I've sheared 3 in a weekend, this fix has already lasted 3 seasons, onto it's fourth.

[deep throat]

Thanks for the heads up....LOL, you guys wanna go partners??

Can't tell you how much this info is solid gold...