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| the "super eta" was produced in 1988, the last year of the "e" model line. prior to 88, the eta was a 2.7liter i6 (m20b27) which utilized "flat-top" pistons and the "200" casting head which featured smaller (higher velocity) ports than its "i" counterparts as well as fewer cam shaft oil journels. The 325i used a 2.5 liter varient (M20B25) which featured "domed" or raised center pistons that mated to the deeper combustion chambers of the "885" head, a head within which the combusion chamber was located IN verses being at the gasket level with the 200 eta head. additionally the 885 has larger diameter ports and valves for higher end breathability, but lacks out on low end torque reaped by the ETA's higher velocity induction rates. enter the end of the ETA era, 1988. in the last year of production, the Motronic 1.1 fuel management system of the earlier ETAs was retained but with a unique DME as well as the 2.7 liter crank, rods and same block bore. what changed was that the eta was fitted with an "i" intake manifold which had larger diameter runners for top end breathability, the 885 head and special unique domed pistons to mate the two ends together. the "super eta" has more torque than the "i" motors and more HP than the "e" motors, but also lesser of the transposed changing out the motronic 1.1 for a 1.3 system from an "i" or doing a custom burned chip, possibly from MarkD in combination with a "zippier" cam shaft can do wonders for a "super eta" Last edited by SpartanEuro : 09-20-2008 at 12:49 PM. |
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| Not a stupid question. The super eta is a reference to the engine only. It is not a package. It was made in the final year of the eta, 1988. (325e, 528e) The engine is basically its own breed. Most of the parts are different from the other eta's. The main difference you will notice in statistics are that it has 6 more horsepower. (127hp vs. 121hp) And the redline was raised from 4500 to 5500. There are many fans of the super eta. I own a eta but have never personally drove a super eta to tell you the differecnce.
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| No they also make a "es". Look up StarkyT22489. He has a "es". It is escentially the same thing as an "i" is to an "is". It is a sportier package of the "e".
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| oh ok. i got few more questions about the e30s if you dont mind. there is a 1984 bmw 318i near by here for sale, and i negotiated the guy down to 1,050 [he didnt want to go down to 1,000]. i was planning on building up the motor. is a 318 a popular motor to boost or should i keep looking for a 325? |
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| Ideally I would want a 325i(s). Unless you can afford a M3. But I am assuming that is out of the question. Many 318's have been boosted before. It is not uncommon. $1,050 sounds like a pretty good price for a 84 318, depending on its condition. It's tough to say without seeing it. If you can afford to build and boost a 318, I would say hold out for a 325i. Maybe even a little newer one with plastic bumpers. Just my .02
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| its got around 95-100,000 miles on it [it had 90,000 this may according to carfax] because the odometer stopped working, little rust here and there. but i think im gonna wait a while if your saying that a 325 is a better route. |
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| eh. i wouldn't get sold on just an 325is. that's just too typical. i bet he's gonna say wait and only buy a plastic bumper late model as well... oh wait, i think he already did ![]() the 318i uses the M10B18. a chain timing driven non-interference (impossible for pistons to come in contact with the valves, a constant fear with M20's that have a questionable timing belt history) single cam 8valve. this make the (low by modern standards compressino ratios) m10 absolutely PERFECT for turbocharging with a smaller case like a t3 at largest turbo. The same block was used in the gloriously iconically famous BMW 2002, 1600, etc. but in carburated form. also the e21 used the M10B20, a 2 liter K-Jet (mechanical injection) variation of the M10 which has a longer stroke (crank throw) than the 1.8 liter L-Jet system in the 83-85 318i. all parts and systems are interchangable ofcourse, which yields a massive history of tuning professionals and tweeked parts and a hugh knowledge base. Google "BMW 2002tii turbo" for example. The lighter weight of the M10 provides as close to 50/50% weight distribution front to rear, and makes for a far better balanced chassis than the M20 powered e30 325's. in rotation at the brink of traction the M10 powered 318i's will rotate their complete chassis around the shift knob. (a truely entertaining experience in nimble response and driver control!) as opposed to the M20 powered e30s which will rotate about a point inside the dash close to the location of the radio's head unit. M10 tuners regularly build up 2.2 liter race-cam'd carburated monsters turning close to 195 hp, frequently more, for their 2002's (boasting a HUGH racing history and community - as well as turbo history). another interesting tidbit of history is BMW's F1 history utilizing turbos and used 2.0liter M10 blocks from old taxi cabs - turning out record, mind blowing power outputs... granted they rebuild each engine regularly... i can't remember the engine code off the top of my head at this moment.... The 318i is slow and does feel gutless in stock form in comparison to the torque figures of the M20s. the M10B18 was rated a 105/102 hp/tq in factory form compared to the 168/~159 hp/tq of the M20B25. but power to weight should never be underestimated, a turbo M10 can still maintain a close to 50/50 weight distribution that an M20 can never get to... Trust me, I've been trying for years. the main fault of the 318i is that it has solid front brake rotors and rear drum brakes, whereas the 325's have solid rear rotors and vented front discs. the quick remedy for that issue is swapping out the rear trailing arms/axles as two full units with ones from a 325, as well as the front rotors and calipers (can be found dirt cheap) if the motor does not burn any oil, has solid compression, truely close to 100k (odometers are not difficult to fix) and the rust is merely surface only and hasn't effected anything structural (easy to fix) $1k isn't a bad price, you could probably get them as low as 900 - what your fighting is an emotional attachment, not intrinsic value - would be a good buy if everything else is up to par, MANUAL, good clutch life still, no leaks, etc. it'll be slower than a 325i but with a little tweeking it'll outrun a 325e on some track twisties. it all depends on your budget and what your looking for, how much experience you have, etc. the 318i will get better gas milage than even a 325e (e for economy - remember that. it does this with torque and almost no hp or revs - whereas the 318 will be more rev-happy and eager to spend time in the higher rev ranges) A 318i will be more entertaining to drive "spiritedly" than a 325e. if your going to hold out for a plastic bumper car consider the 318i/is which is powered by the m42, a dual cam rev-happy 4banger, i-4 or i6, either way it's gonna cost you atleast $5k for an example worth your time.... otherwise it's going to cost you much more than that just to get it up to par and stay ontop of the repairs. another thing to consider is that the e30 is on the cusp of "classic" designation, legally/federally, which effects emission testing requisits, registration costs, etcetera etcetera... the point is the ones in good condition are quickly climbing higher and higher in value and neglected ones are quickly becoming worthless piles of either scrap metal, liabilities, or maintence nightmares. whatever way you go, if it's into an e30, your gonna get addicted. it's just how it is. e30's are different. OH, and don't let people pressure you into a particular model type or certain car just because they are biased due to what they personally own. it's your car, your call. each type of e30 has it's own appeal. i'll take an M10 318i ice racing ANYDAY over any other e30. ...dirt rally an ix, road course a 325i, track an M42 318is, Grocery-getta a touring (euro only wagon), or DD an eta. always a manual, never an auto. But that's just My Personal Opinion. you gotta make your own from your own personal experiences Last edited by SpartanEuro : 09-21-2008 at 08:27 PM. |
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| everyone who has a "e" and is trying or wanting to modify it wishes they had a "i" it's just what always happens. ...if you get an "e" be damn sure your not looking for more power but better fuel economy in a nimble package; cause there aint many options other than a 885 full rebuild or a 885 half-rebuild + boost. upside of an "e" is that a computer chip does wonders for it! but that's a slippery slope toward an unsatisfying addiction resulting in ^^. |
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| An "i" is "typical" for a reason. Its a good engine. Stop commenting on my posts. If you have your opinion that is fine, but there is no reason to mention mine.
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