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| HELP! Need help with problems on v1 Install! Alright, so everythings going fine on the install, UNTILLLL I can't get the unit to power on testing it.... I have checked the ground wire, thats nice and tight under the screw. Since I am doing it through the vanity light/ sunroof panel area, I was told to use the Unviersal Remote connector wires. MadRussians Install says to use the "green wire with blue stripe" ( http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_valentine_v1.shtml ) however, in my 2000 328ci, there are no green wires with blue stripes on this connector, theres a Yellow wire, a black middle wire (ground?), and a clear heavier looking gauged wire.... I tried tapping into all 3, none worked.... I checked the fuse in the hardwire kit, even switched it out, still didnt work (and yes i had the key in position 2)... anyone know anything to help me out! I leave for college for a 6-7hr drive on friday, and want to get this done ASAP so i can listen to some music along the way using my ipod! Thanks! Bolo |
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| is that really necessary, its between a screw and a washer.... and its just a spade connecter that fits perfectly fine... which should i sand, the connector or the screw/washer?.. oh and theres no paint on the screw or washer i dont think |
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| aight, i might need ur help, turns out the ground is actually screwed into a peice of black plastic.... but im thinking that shouldnt effect it too much, as the screw screws into metal, but ill sand it down and try it. oh, the screw does have a blackish tint on it, maybe sanding it off will do the trick ![]() |
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When I did my install, I couldn't find any easy power takeoffs near the sunroof, so I stole power from the courtesy light panel. I wasn't getting good grounding or clean stable signals, so I figured I should just find a pair that gave me a steady 12.7V. There were 5 wires going to the courtesy lights, I used the solid brown (not the brown with red stripe) for negative/ground and the purple with white stripe for positive/hot. I found these by taking the circuit board off the body of the lights and probing around with the multimeter for a circuit that was hot when the ignition was on, but cold with the ignition off. I would've just probed at the wires, but my 328 has the wiring soldered right to the circuit board - no handy-dandy little plug. I suppose I should take some pictures some time.
__________________ M aero kit, Conforti software, CAI, TMS rear control arms, front strut brace, Supersprint exhaust, ZKW Elipsoids+5000K HID+Predator Chromium, V1. Hm, what next... (too lazy to get out the camera) |
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| Also, I used a 22awg to 18awg Tap-In Connector (radio shack #6403053) on the ground, rather than that little screw-in lug. I had to ream out the 22awg side a little, then the plastic tap would hold the insulation rather than putting the entire tap on just the metal conductors. I wedged the direct-wire adapter up in the sunroof motor compartment, while the electrical taps were in the courtesy light compartment, and stuffed the extra V1 power cable into the bulkhead with a lot of other wires up there. Again: multimeter. You'll be able to test which wires are carrying what, and without wrecking your V1...
__________________ M aero kit, Conforti software, CAI, TMS rear control arms, front strut brace, Supersprint exhaust, ZKW Elipsoids+5000K HID+Predator Chromium, V1. Hm, what next... (too lazy to get out the camera) |
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| Well, after much Multimeter testing, MCouper found out there wasnt a good power/ground up in the sunroof motor area, so he moved it to the fuse box, just tapped into a constant power source (the glove box light), ran the wire through the pillar, up under the windsheild and past the mirror, now its nice and clean, couldnt have done it without him, nice guy, nice cars too |