| ||||||||||||||||||
| | ||||||||||||||||||
|
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| |
| ||||
| You want the car around 13" front and 11.75" rear, measured fender to the center of the wheel. It looks like you have 7" rear springs which means the adjuster will near the bottom. The fronts should be middle or toward the top. You basically will have to install them, drive around, measure, then adjust them to the correct height. Each turn of the front is 1/8" change in ride height, each turn of the rear is 1/4" change in ride height. The install is very straight forward. You might need to ream out the swaybar mounting hole, it was too small on mine and my friends kit.
__________________ Sean |
| ||||
| Quote:
easy girls, job, coilover install...lol im sure they will be black within one week BTW... what are you driving now? |
| |||
| Quote:
Also, on the M3 motorwerks website it says 7" springs are for essentially perfect roads and they shouldnt be ordered if roads nearby are even slightly rough? Is there a performance difference associated with 6" springs over 7" springs, is just the difference of spring rates? thanks alot, you are kind of a GC guru. -Richard
__________________ ![]() 95 GT35R 332 and 95 Avus Blue M3 |
| ||||
| Those heights are for cars with no camber plates, its the best compromise between lowering and still having a good amount of travel. You want to preserve suspension travel. Most of the time you only order the 7" spring in a 450 lb spring. Thats because the 6" 450 coilbinds. I used to run the 375/450 7" combo and it was very nice. For a car that sees a majority of street time, i'd take that setup.
__________________ Sean |