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| Ok, I'm pretty damn good (if I do say so myself) at smooth shifting through just timing and rev matching (as in I pop the clutch for pretty much every shift and never slip it, but it still shifts smooth feeling thanks to timing). I try to keep my foot off the cluch as much as I can. On upshifts, I blip the throttle and match it there, too. Anyway, my question is this: I just want to make sure this is better for my clutch. I figured it would be, so I just started driving like this all the time, but I just want to make sure. Thanks.
__________________ ![]() Sept. 1995 325is Thin rear-deck spoiler, clear corners/side markers, tint (35%), Jim C. chip, ECIS intake, M3 muffler, AA short shifter, AA track pipe, UR crank pulley, fan delete, 97+ front grill conversion (blacked out), a little magic here and there.. or something. |
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| Its not good to put the car in neutral, you don't have control of the car then. Personally, if i'm going 45 or so and coming to a stop light. I put the brakes on then downshift to 2nd with i'm near 30 and stop. Brakes are cheaper than clutches, but don't coast in neutral.
__________________ Sean |
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| Re: Question on shifting and clutch life Quote:
__________________ Car: 1994 325is 5spd. Mods/Show: - Diamond clear tailights - UUC RKIII knob - 17x8.5 Black Powdercoated Kosei K1 racing. Mods/sound: - 2 10 inch kicker comps w/crossfire amps - old ass pioneer headunit - component speakers Mods/GO: - Benferperformance 1 piece CAI Camera: Minolta XG-M SLR 35mm |
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| That's how I drive, I'm the third owner and the car is pushing 82k miles now. ....on the factory clutch. ![]() After 3k the clutch will not grab (if the car is going slow.) It's fine @ WOT in first as long as the clutch was fully let out before I go WOT. I need to do an LTW flywheel / E34 M5 clutch swap soon. Shit, if a factory clutch lasted 7 years, I'm going to have a LOT OF FUN with an M5 clutch for the ~10k more I'm going to put on the car till I sell it. Burn outs at every light!! btw: I always go into neutral if I know I have to slow down. It's easier on the brakes and the engine (you aren't slowing the engine down using the drivetrain) also, the engine is simply turning less. On a car with 82 thousand miles on it, I don't see the point of keeping the thing turning till you come to a stop if you already know you are eventually going to stop. Enging braking is just STUPID btw, unless you are downshifting to be in a better gear coming out of a turn or something, there's NO need for it. Even then, you should be rev-matching so the drivetrain doesn't take up the difference in speed between the clutch / flywheel. As already stated, brakes are a lot cheaper than clutches. Furthermore, think of what's connected to that clutch. When you figure it takes a lot more friction to speed up an engine from ~1k to 2.5k if you use the engine for braking than it does simply accellerating through the gears, engine braking more than DOUBLES the use/friction applied to the clutch...needlessly. Don't do it. ![]()
__________________ |'97 M3 Coupe | Estoril Blue | 255BHP/259BTQ - old #s ![]() Last edited by E36DJ : 10-22-2003 at 05:55 PM. |