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| Turbo Guages What are the 3 guages that are used when having a turbo application? also does anyone have A pillar pics that can post for me? Thanks Mark
__________________ M3s are fast! Audio Focal McIntosh A/D/S |
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| cool thanks for the heads up. You wouldnt happen to know any online stores where i could check them our do you? Thanks Mark
__________________ M3s are fast! Audio Focal McIntosh A/D/S |
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| www.supremepowerparts.com does custom A-pillar moldings. As far as gauges i like autometer's. I will think of some more sites. i know there are some out there...
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| www.jegs.com www.summitracing.com I would get oil temp, too. put 3 in the console and one in the A pillar.
__________________ 1973 Verona-ish 2002 2004 Mazda3 Hatch 1994 Honda CBR600 F2 |
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| I like... I am running A/F, boost in the A-pillar and Oil pressure and fuel pressure below the OBC. I also would recommend an EGT gauge as well -- possibly an Oil temperature gauge (the A/F one I don't think you really need). The EGT one that I would get oscillates at about 1600 cycles per minute, it's about 4 inches long and about 2 inches thick, it will fit in your glove box and it is VERY accurate. Cost is around $300 I believe, so not that bad. Considering if you can afford to turbo/S/C your vehicle, don't go cheap on the gauges.... |
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| I don't thing an a/f gauge is a good tool for any modified car. When a car goes wot it does not use the O2 sensor anymore cause its not very reliable at those engine speeds. The computer runs off internal maps at that time. An EGT gauge is much more effective in diagnosing a lean or rich motor. In my opinion the best gauges for a turbo car are; boost, EGT, and oil pressure. |
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| Thanks again guys Hey Jderry do you have a link to that guage you are talking about? I would like to see why it would be $300 others i have seen are like $50. I'm not trying to go cheap or anyhting i just would like to compare quality Thanks Mark
__________________ M3s are fast! Audio Focal McIntosh A/D/S |
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| If you are going to run three or four guages, And mount some in the A pillar and some below the OBC. You *should* put the boost and the egt in the easiest to see position. Put A/F and oil pressure/temp ect. If you can't see the boost, and EGT, you risk blowing your engine. Personal experance with this. I used to drive a talon, and I was testing out a new boost controler, and the vacume/boost piping to the wastegate came off and for a split second in 3rd gear my car pulled harder then it has EVER, I thought that it was on some kinda of crack. I looked at my boost guage and I was well over 2 bar (apx 14.7psi is 1 bar. ) OMfG, It was something else. close to 450hp. but had i not left off, The car would have been done, in a matter or seconds, err second (maybe 2) .
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| well... after a thorough discussion with some people --- differing opinions on the EGT gauge functionality. The system I am referring to is the computech system, it taps the 1,3,6 or 1,3,5?? I forget, it oscillates at 1600 cycles per minute. From what we've been debating, an EGT gauge, normally placed by the collector, does NOT give an accurate reading. The reason, it is: 1) time delay (40 seconds plus to register a change in temp.); and 2) the temperature decreases incrementally with increasing distance. However, I think a normal HKS EGT gauge, for instance, is fine if you are NOT going to be running increased boost, larger injectors, etc. However, if you ARE going to do this, I would consider the computech system, it gives more reliable feedback for tuning considerations. If you do go with the EGT gauge, I believe someone said make sure it is an open probe -- that is used...also, typically add about 50-100 degrees to the reading, just to account for distance variations, etc. I think 1500 and below is idea, preferably around the 1300 range. Luckyguy - well, wouldn't using a wideband O2 sensor fix that problem though? |
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