Ebay Turbo Kits

[92318is]

The thing is, a good tune shouldn't cost you too much. I had my eclipse tuned for $100, they hooked it up to a wideband o2 sensor and hooked it up to their own computers to tune it, I don't even know where to begin with that stuff, lol. The higher up in the rpm range you are, and the higher up in boost you go, the more chance there is for something to go wrong. Like most things, its kind of common sense, if you know the basics of how a combustion engine works. The turbo pushes more air per square inch (hence psi) and the injectors just have a bigger whole in them. The stock ecu thinks its putting the same amount of air and fuel into the cylinder, so it doesn't know the difference because all of the sensors for how much air and fuel go into the cylinder are obviously before the cylinder itself, and even before the turbo and injectors. You can't just dump a lot more air and fuel into the cylinder and expect it to run correctly, especially at higher rpms/boost levels. So you need to tune it so it knows how much air and fuel to put into the cylinder. The higher the rpms, the faster the engine is spinning, the higher the chance for something to go wrong.

So get the tune! It isn't that expensive, in fact, it'll probably be one of the cheaper things you do to the car, lol.

[itsabimmerthing]

Exactly, and a good tune adds huge power. Buschur racing did a tune, and picked up 80AWHP just for example.

[j.amrol]

Professional tune's are obviously the best way to go but we're talking about an ETA. The only way to even go about a professional tune is to go stand alone engine management, or some how get on a dyno and run numbers then burn a chip (which is next to, if not impossible). Unless I am missing something about motronic 1.0.

One thing that I have heard of alot is just to disconnect the WOT (wide open throttle) part of the TPS (throttle position switch) not to retard but to prevent the ignition from advancing , and run a piggy back fuel management system with a wide band o2 sensor. Another option for fuel delivery would be larger injectors, RRFPR, and an upgraded fuel pump and/ or inline fuel pump. Either way you have should prevent the ignition from advancing at WOT without aftermarket knock sensors.

There are some drawbacks.

With larger injectors you WILL have idle problems, and anytime your not on full boost it will run rich which could run you into a bunch of misc. little problems down the road. No start, poor fuel economy, maybe even over heated cat, and probably more I'm not thinking about at the moment.

With a piggy back fuel management you still may need larger injectors and/ or extra injectors, an upgraded fuel pump, wide band o2 sensor (<- for self tuning with laptop). So cost rises, but many of them will allow you to read/ alter sensor signals to the ecu to prevent advance (but claim retard).

Neither of these options will put out anywhere near peak horsepower or torque but hey... We've got a $Grand$ to spend, and demand more than 121hp (more like 110 by now).Plus you can allways upgrade later. Just don't even think of going past 1 bar without knock sensors, or some sick sprayed intercooler and race fuel. Then it will just get dangerous, and/ or last a weekend.

To wrap it up, ebay turbo's... Why not? Minus customer service, and warranty. What's left? The life of the turbo, and it's ability to produce smooth (non spikey) operation. Internal wastegate's are S### for real racing anyway. Why not is the operative question. $500 for the turbo kit, $350 for fuel management, $250 for intercooler + downpipe (muffler shop will do) and misc. things needed for install of it all. A full day of your time if you plan it all out right. It all sounds good for a 20+ yr old car to put out 200hp (min.) that weighs just over 3,000lbs & 80's styling.

I picked up my first 85 ETA for $1,000 lowered to the maximum without rolling fenders. Adj. camber kit, cheap alloy 16x7.5 inch rims, I custom made a true cool air intake (behind the bumper) plus he let me make payments
$100/ month. My then my second is an 86 ETA sport I got for $275 with a full tank of gas and a bent tie rod (had to tow it out with my truck before city plows hit the road because he couldn't drive). The second in absolute mint condition must have been garaged it's whole life, and will continue to be except for the Kid who owned it for the month of december 07 who though it was cool to buy an e30 for a winter ride...

Do it dude,
if you want more later.. Get a 325i head, intake manifold, throttle body, wiring harness & ecu. Some custom pistons, maybe even a schrick camshaft.

or later on have the ETA head drilled to oil a 7 bearing cam ($50 where I'm from), throw in some performance or stock 325i dual valve springs and wire in the motronic 1.3 wire harness W/ecu (e30 325i). Then you'll have rev's past 7000, and ability/ have to change to a 325i or performance camshaft. All while running 8 psi & 9.0.1 compression pistons (<-stock) keeping the fuel management mentioned above.

If you still want more power change the diff. It wont change the output of the engine but it will change the way it accelerates. I don't think you will need to swap it if you are headed past 1 bar. Otherwise you will be shifting through gears too quicky.

Never forget that everything on an eta is cheap/ easy to fix. Bolt on/ off, plus misc. seals, and tools you should have anyway.

Keep in mind they may call be a newb, but I read ALOT, and engines just make sense to me. Feel free to criticise.

~J.Amrol~

[e30lexparkmd]

well its nice to come back after a few days and see this post since the last time i was on id been thinking of how im going to pull this off and after looking at a couple of old turbop mags and watching the new d sport dvd where they talked about haltech computers and engine management system i had already decided before i go big on thisone i needed to upgrade engine management if i go any further than bolt ons (which aside from a mass air adapter and cone filter are pretty much non existant) my only weak point is wiring is the one thing im scared of. put a welder or any hand tool in my hands im golden but something about wiring makes me a little edgy if i was to go stand alone or piggy back the computer is there already some prior manufactured "plug and play kits" or wideband 02 sensors readily available for the 2.7 and if i got the items to make this possible would i be able to run the wide bands befor installing the stand alone computer and harness.
but before any of this ive narrowed it down to two cars i sold some stuff and got some stuff i still have my 86 325es but i sold my small block conversion project car to fund the 2.7 project (and to reduce the grief haha) i sold my other 86 and now have an 85 325e parts car with title the 5 speed gear box in the car shifts great the motor is plagued with poor compression on 4 and 6 and leaks oil like a sive blown head gasket anyone so i was planning on taking the parts i want and the motor on my 86 (which at one point before i owned it had suffered a small crash and some chassis damage still affecting the car) and swaping them over to the other car i do have two spare diffs and another 2.7 with a 07/86 date code so i feel im prepared.

where i run into issues is the cluth in the car is chattering when the pedal is not engaged so i say i need to replace it upon putting in the new motor so i set out looking at a few companies and my problem is i have the option of buying a clutch for cars produced until 04/86 or after 05/86 i have two motors 05/86 and 07/86 and the chassis of the other car is i belive 04/85 which leads me to believe the tranny is the same provided it was never replaced so do i orde the early clutch or later due to my motors date code also is there any other wiring differences or computer differences between 85 and 86 that i should know about please help guys i posted about this last night in the e30 general discussion if someones got some knowledge for me and dont want to get off the topic in this particular forum "ebay turbo kits" thanks again guys oh and im trying to get a little better with this typing thing so forgive me if i seem a little all over the place

[j.amrol]

I would crawl under and check the guibo (flex disc). 110mm it's pre 4/86, 135mm its after 5.86. Replace it with the clutch. Besides it can cause a chatter while your releasing the clutch too.

I havent noticed any major wiring difference between the 85e and 86es other than the security system.

[e30lexparkmd]

im gonna go sans security on this one i did happen to find a very inexpensive system from mega squirt i saw something about a car from florida it was a 2002 using a m20 from an 89is or something and i went to this website patatron.com and they are alot cheaper than i thought i would find any thoughts on these paired even with the ebay turbo kit youd have to imagine it would be more reliable than the stock ecu

i will check on that guibo thanks j.

[e30lexparkmd]

oh by the way i know the trans is pre 86 its the stock in the 85 chassis im using i was also planning on using the flywheel from the 85 but also i dont know yet if the 85 fly wheel will work on the 86 motors as of yet. are they the same through the m20 years

the match up will be:

05/86 or 07/86 motor (after05/86)
mated to 04/85 trans (before 04/86)

mated to either motor my trans is still early where as either motor i use is produced after the said date so i dont know whether i should get the pre or post 05/86 clutch do i match it to the trans year or motor year being it attaches to the fly wheel and the fly wheel attaches to the motor i even tried asking the guy on the live chat help line and he wasnt much help he seemed confused

i will probably replace the guibo before the clutch to see if that is my chatter issue it only does it when the pedal has no pressure the slightest touch and its gone

[j.amrol]

Personally I would match the clutch, trans, and flywheel just to be on the safe side. theeurodepot.com are very knowlegable guys. They're from up here in NH but you should shoot them an email. They will probably say to go with the later style transmition/ clutch that way you could use the lighter 325i flywheel. Just match the clutch to the transmission that way the expensive part is out of the way, and match the flywheel to the clutch. That's what I would do.

[e30lexparkmd]

will the flywhee still work with my crank and will my computer work with those pin sensors on my flywheel if i use the computer for the newer motor until i go standalone

[j.amrol]

use the ecu from a newer e30?... you mean from a 325i? you would have to swap the entire wiring harness, and you would need a 325i head because your rev limit would be set too high for a 4 bearing cam.

or did you mean from another eta, just a different year? as far as i know the flywheels are all interchangeable from the m20 block the only problem is will it work with the clutch, and the starter. just match the flywheel, clutch, and trans. from any m20~ b27/ or b25 and you should be all right. the motronic ecu is self learning so when you fire it up the first time just let it idle and work itself into a groove.

[CapeE30]

Originally Posted by itsabimmerthing

Yea, defintely understandable.
I used the ebay 16g, and it worked well. It was a old XS unit, and I could have been one of the lucky ones, but the turbo never failed as much as I beat it. Good enough for 13.7 with 16psi on a pump gas TSi.

16G as in a Volvo turbo?

[92318is]

Originally Posted by CapeE30

16G as in a Volvo turbo?

I would assume he's talking about a Mitsubishi 16g since he was referring to an Eagle Talon tsi.

[CapeE30]

Originally Posted by 92318is

I would assume he's talking about a Mitsubishi 16g since he was referring to an Eagle Talon tsi.

Ooops I must have missed that part. I had a Volvo S70 that had a 16G, maybe the same turbo.

[92318is]

He also said an old XS unit, I don't know what that is, lol, I thought maybe it was some sort of volvo since you asked if it was from a volvo. Although its possible that volvo may have used a mitsubishi manufactured turbo for their car, I don't know much about volvo.

[bubba'sbimmer]

Ok i got one for you guys- I'm also wanting to boost my 87 2.7..... with 272,000 miles!!! Crazy, this i know, but its my toy car so its not too important. And i also was going with just a little ebay kit. I just want it to basically run LOL. Its my first turbo job and kinda just for practice. What kind of pointers do you guys have(besides a new motor! I appreciate the help.