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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2005, 06:22 PM
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sorry dude, hope you find something you can do to get some more go in yur whip. for anyone who's been wondering about my project, here's an update for my ej205 swap. finally got some more pictures uploaded to my yahoo album. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/slamdr...lbum?.dir=e67f jeremy also came down tonight and the wiring is well on its way. the wrx harness is prepped, the RS wiring that was staying was cut and labelled. the new prepped harness is now taped up all purdy and laid in where it needs to be waiting for O2 sensors and to be soldered into the remaining RS wiring. i'll take pictures and get my album updated tomorrow when its nice and light out. until then enjoy the new pictures i've uploaded so far.

p.s. sorry if this is kind of a hijack. just figured some ppl hav been following the swap and its a turbo motor so i figured it's related to the sibject.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2005, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digi
was contacting AA for the 325 S/C kit looks like a no go according to the post here. Sorry Phil, I'll cancel that potential order !!
What have they been telling you?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2005, 11:33 PM
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It is as reliable as you want it to be! Are you asking what do I mean? Well You can get a cheap turbo-kit and be as reliable as an expensive one!?!? As long as the kit has fuel managment, not an FMU, but an AFC, larger injectors, replace the pump as this is a cheap and important option. Make sure you have the ECU optimized, this isnt mandatory as most kits come with a "missing link" or a "blackbox" to hide the boost from the ecu so it does fuck up your readings. If you run a boost gauge, a wideband 02 and not a piece of shit autometer, RUN A AEM WIDEBAND!!! Flashing lights arent good enough when you wanna be reliable, a ratio is important. You will want a boost gauge, as you dont wanna guess lol, because if your wastegate flapper door isnt correct size, say high to boost creep, which is prolly why alot of you are riding bikes now. The small stock exhaust will choke you out, got MINIMUM 2.5 on a turbo 6 cylinder! Make sure its ALL 2.5 NOT JUST AXLE BACK! If you wanna be reliable, you already are on par with me here, and you understand everything I just said. I am no expert but I do know what it takes, if you dont know what a "wideband" is, or flapper door, do some research then turbo it.
The most common mistake with MOST people that turbo their NT is this:
You get on your turbo, and you start it up, go beat the shit outta it, and it never goes back to a shop! What is wrong with that you ask? Well when you turbo an NT and you wanna be reliable, you should have the car dyno tuned for correct fuel settings for the new boost. But didnt I say an optimized ecu was ok? Yea its ok, but I would dyno tune it, and would never run stock ecu. If you dont dyno tune the car, you will prolly be getting picked up by a BMW who did it right. Also don't turbo the goddam car if it sounds like there are 15 horses runnin under the hood, this would mean you have a wristpin messed up, or something else vital. As I have said 1 million times already, if you rush through it, you are either uneducated, or testing your luck. Please do it right the first time so you dont find yourself buying a new m50, s50... You could spend money having the turbo put on, and tuned doing it right the first time. Or you could skip a corner or two and do it all over again. You can skip a corner when you put on an exhaust, or install a shark injector, but boost is a bully you dont mess with, because it will beat you everytime. EDIT: also I forgot knock sensor, get one! If you dont have one, you shouldnt have boost imo
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2005, 03:50 AM
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I have had my turbo kit for 2 years now and my motor and turbo is in pretty good shape go through more clutches than any thing.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2005, 02:42 AM
 
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2005, 08:58 AM
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I am enjoying this thoroughly...lol
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