VIDEO! Shutting down Dynapack @ 12PSI + 416rwhp & 459rwtq @ 9PSI run!

[Highboosting///M3]

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[orijinal_poser]

damn cameron, your shit never ceases to amaze me. good work.

[Highboosting///M3]

Originally Posted by orijinal_poser

damn cameron, your shit never ceases to amaze me. good work.

Thanks buddy!

[Dado]

very nice, that's still with the GT30R right?

[orijinal_poser]

hey cameron, i've been meaning to ask you for awhile, what hood do you have?

and dado, looks like you're in the 8000 post club

[AcR]

Omg!

[Highboosting///M3]

Originally Posted by Dado

very nice, that's still with the GT30R right?

Thanks Dado. Yeah, I know the GT30R turbo probably is too small but I spent so much stupid money on the thing. So I think I am going to try & blow it up before I change to the GT35R turbo.

[Dado]

never enough How is the boost response with the GT30R and the tubular manifold?

[orijinal_poser]

i was wondering, is a T3/T4 hybrid too big to start out with? and also i found used turbo headers on active autowerke's website for $775. good price or too much?

[Highboosting///M3]

Originally Posted by Dado

never enough How is the boost response with the GT30R and the tubular manifold?

Boost response is awesome! Full boost by 3k! In the video the dyno operator was told to not even start the run until 3500 so that is why it looks like full boost comes in later there. I love the response so much, in fact that is why I am going to push this turbo to the max.

Originally Posted by orijinal_poser

i was wondering, is a T3/T4 hybrid too big to start out with? and also i found used turbo headers on active autowerke's website for $775. good price or too much?

That turbo is almost too small to start with. It will have nice spool but if you get it, get it with a Stag V exhaust wheel so it will be good for up to nearly 450rwhp when you upgrade. I had that turbo & spool was still like 2900.

Used turbo header? Which make? If it is AA then all over it! If it is Turbonetics then you can get it for less than $700 brand new!

[orijinal_poser]

yea, you're right about that, thanks for the advice

[Dynapack Scott]

Looks like you have a pretty serious M3. I am sure it is a blast to drive.

Just a quick note:
The system you ran your vehicle on was the 400hp model 2000 Dynapack.

Our most popular system, the 3000 is capable of 1050hp.

If you would like the names of some of the shops in your area that have the Larger Dynapack system, just let me know.

Regards
Scott Lampkin
Dynapack USA

[Highboosting///M3]

Originally Posted by Dynapack Scott

Looks like you have a pretty serious M3. I am sure it is a blast to drive.

Just a quick note:
The system you ran your vehicle on was the 400hp model 2000 Dynapack.

Our most popular system, the 3000 is capable of 1050hp.

If you would like the names of some of the shops in your area that have the Larger Dynapack system, just let me know.

Regards
Scott Lampkin
Dynapack USA

That is awesome! I would love the names of those locations! I want to dyno my car just before I take the head off & do all the work I am going to do to it. I really like the Dynapack. I might dyno my Supra on it also! No tire slippage or any BS. Nothing to argue. Straight-up accurate numbers. Then I will dyno the car just after all the work is done. For my 500+rwhp dyno sheet. Then I am finished with the car....I'll just drive her.

[skeides]

Is that 450 whp on stock internals? I really dont know much about the strength of the stock conecting rods, pistons, crankshaft. Are all these stock forged on the bmw m3 e36?

[TechnikMitchell]

All the information on Dynapack and most of the facilities who carry it are on their website; http://www.dynapackusa.com

As for accuracy and repeatability, there is nothing that compares to the Dynapack. You are absolutely right as far as the hub-based system is concerned. It is truly a load-bearing dyno that does not utilize any brake to "simulate load" like roller dynos do.

The downside to the Dynapack as a business owner is that for a dyno day it cannot be as profitable, as a roller dyno's setup & breakdown is much easier and faster, thereby enabling many more cars to be run in a single day.

Yet on the roller dynos; tires do slip and wear, cars have side to side motion, and if you make too much power, and the wheels are slipping on the dyno, well I'm sure you can see how that would produce some pretty inaccurate #'s. Also, don't forget that roller dynos require the cars to be "Strapped". These straps are made of various materials and fabrics but as with anything under stress, the straps ususally give and stretch (like a watch band almost) which all cause for various innaccuracies in readings. Not only this but think about how that affects tuning the vehicle for driveability vs. only doing WOT runs. A Dynapack can be held to sweep for any amount of time; short or long.

There are many different opinions on dynos and this is mine. I have been on just about every kind of dyno made (Dynojet, Mustang, Dyno-Dynamics, etc.) and you should know that the most important aspect of any dyno is to start, work, and finish on the same one if possible, since each one varies a little either by manufacturer or operator.

When you read all about the features of the Dynapack on their website it's easy to see why F1 teams, WRC teams, IRL teams, and NASCAR teams all use them....