Supercharger Owners Attention

[mertdastan]

ALL SUPERCHARGER OWNERS WITH 11 PSI OR MORE AND 10,5 COMPRESSION RATIO:
I have a European M3 3,2L. It is supercharged. I have a water to air intercooler and aquamist. I spray water metanol 50/50.
My boost was 8 psi and with 95 octane fuel we had no problems. Last week I increased the size of the crank pulley and boost is now 11 psi.
I could not see and feel any detonation at 1st and 2nd gears.
We have no speed regulations.
I tested the car in 5 th and 6 th gear with 11 psi of boost. The engine was reluctant to go up to 170 mph in 5th gear and when I shifted to 6th gear the needle was not moving to 200 mph.
Suddenly the engine started to vibrate and the needle stopped. That is detonation.
All of you drive at speeds lower than 175 mph over there in USA. And that is why all of you can not feel detonation. In 6th gear and 5th gear, it takes longer for the engine to rev. As a result the engine is under boost for a longer time than it may take in lower gears. You guys finish 2nd and 3rd gears up to redline very quick. But try 5th gear up to redline and you ll see detonation.
This is why all serious Australian and German tuners lower compression ration for boost levels of more than 8 psi.

[paul e]

It seems you have your answer...If the higher boost isnt working out for you, then use a different pulley! If your engine is vibrating, and fails to reach redline in any gear, then youd better change things pronto. If its knocking as badly as you said, Id get it to your mechanic and check things out right away...and then go back to a milder pulley. I dont think youll get too many responses from american drivers with much experience at 170 mph, except those on the track.

Whats strange is that with an aftercooler and water injection, american OBDII m3s are able to handle this much boost without their engines coming apart...and without lowering compression ratios..AA used to lower CRs on their OBDIs...but on their OBDIIs, theyre making this much boost without it. So is Dinan on some of his signature hi boost vehicles...

Please get your engine checked out to make sure theres not something else going on.

[mertdastan]

Today I went to my repair shop to install a larger sc pulley. We saw that the o ring of he aquamist's water jet was not in correct position and water was not penetrating the intake system. Water was coming out of the water jet and that may be the reason of my detonation. We have corrected the o ring's position but it is raining so much that my air flow meter is damaged. So, I ll test later whenI get a new air flow meter.

[gerry_miranda]

This scares me. Im thinking of doing 10 psi with winjection. How can i be sure that the winjection is working? Consequences of winjection failure seems hi. Can you have a dual nozzel? is ther any way to bypass boost depending on iat (intake air temp)? maybe a bypass valve triggerd by iat?

[m3k]

I have a 95 s/c (vortech) with an air to water intercooler. I do all the installs myself and i am boosting about 13-14psi daily. Whether its 1,2,3,4, or 5th gear there is no detonation and no water injection. How are you running your car at 170 mph? Thats a lot of gearing thinking that the euro m3's top out at a supposed 180mph

[gerry_miranda]

Whos SC kit and Intercooler kit are you using? How much HP?

[paul e]

We saw that the o ring of he aquamist's water jet was not in correct position

Ok Guys, heres the best way to make sure youre water injection is working ok...First, turn your ignition to position II, but dont start the engine...Turn on your water injection arming switch so that it glows. Then go to your manifold pressure switch. Remove the black rubber protective cap, and slowly remove one of the leads from its spade connector on the switch...You will instantly trigger the pump to start spraying....Look closely at where the nozzle enters the supercharger discharge pipe....If you see it dribbling, or can feel any wetness where the nozzle joins the pipe, you have a problem!

Put the wire back as soon as possible, as letting it spray any longer than 5 seconds will cause you a little difficulty starting the car...

What you can do is contact aquamist, and get yourself a 'quick disconnect'. This is a little plastic part that fits in line with the water hose...I cut the 4mm water hose 3" behind the nozzle, and put in the quick disconnect...That way, I can easily remove the hose to check spray patterns, without either having to unscrew the nozzle, or pulling the hose off...What you will find is each time you pull the hose off, it develops a bulbous shape where it fits over the nozzle end, and you can no longer get a real tight fit the next time you put it on...Meaning you need to cut off a quarter inch each time you examine it..Which means before long, your hose is too short!

Order yourself a disconnect, and some extra hose, and youll be in good shape..goto the aquamist web site, and they will refer you to a local distributor..In the states, theres a guy in the mid west who is great.

Anyway, when you tighten the nozzle, it will squish the O-ring..However, you do not need to replace it...I like using thin teflon tape even better, as it makes an excellent connection, and removes any slop in the threads, if you have it. Just make sure not to drape the teflon over any part of the opening, of course!

Gerry,
>>Can you have a dual nozzel? is ther any way to bypass boost depending on iat (intake air temp)? maybe a bypass valve triggerd by iat<<

You can have 2 nozzles, but its absolutely not necessary for our system..Your clearly thinking of redundancy, however,you can make yourself foolproof without it. For instance, I always wondered, how can I be sure its spraying? Well, to that end, I ran a parallel connection with the manifold pressure switch, to a little green LEd mounted in my A pillar pod right next to my boost gauge...Now, every time I hit 3.5 psi, the trigger point for mine, I see the little green LEd start glowing, right next to my boost gauge..Its very cool, and gives you all kinds of security. Then, every so often, I will unscrew the nozzle, and test it, using the method above, by removing one of the leads from the pressure swtich. Then, if your very careful about making sure you have teflon wrapped threads, and your hole is cut and threaded properly, your 99.5% sure to be making good cooling...And, the Low Level LED warns you when low..IT comes on when you still have about 20% of the tank left, so you have good lead time. Just take a little common sense care, and you should have no problems. Oh, I have another device to help me...I have an EGT gauge, so I know what my EGTs usually run..If they shoot up, its another sign Id better check my water system.

Hope this helps.

[m3k]

Havent got the numbers on the dyno yet- but im using rms stage II supercharger with custom chip and upgraded boost-

[M3Turboca]

The 13-14 psi boost that you must have lowered your compression ? If you did what are you running now and did you notice any drop with the lower compression ?

Mark

[m3k]

Nope- all stock head gasket. No lowered compression with stock pistons!

[mertdastan]

I bought my sc kitfrom G Power in germany. They do not allow more than 6,9 psi with 10,5:1 compression ratio.
Today I changed my sc pulley and decreased the boost to 9 psi. There was heavy rain on the highway and could not test well. But I tried to accelerate from 50 mph in 4 th gear to 125 mph. I could go up to 115 mph in WOT because the rear wheels were spinning and it became dangerous. However, my needle was still revving reluctantly up to 5500 rpm and I could not drive in 5th and 6th gears to see detonation.
ONE THING IS ESSENTIAL. My air flow meter is located behind the left fof light and it got wet all this week. Today I had to tow my car to the repair shop because of the air flow meter failure. It was wet and we dried it. Can it be that my air flow meter is damaged and that is why the engine does not want to revv freely to 5500 rpm and then shakes at 5 th and 6 th gears at 185 mph. I could not get to 200 mph because of the engine's vibration.
Euro 3,2L, G-Power SC kit, 10,5 :1 cr,boost varies from 8 to 11psi but 11 psi was not good water air intercooler, aquamist...

[Hellred]

From everyone I have spoken to on the topic of boost, it is unsafe, and mostly unreliable to boost past 7.5lbs without dropping compression. I may do the water (hokey) injection, and bring boost to 7.5 from 6. I guess I am very conservative!

G

[M3Turboca]

Hopefully all you would need is the air flow meter. If water got on the film and dried out it could affect the performance. Would the check light not come on if the air flow meter was reading the wrong values ?
I have a few suggestions hopefully one will work on the top end pull. The fuel filter has it been serviced within the last 2 years.

Check your spark plugs my car would sometimes miss under full load when it was cold outside below 50'F and I found out that 3 of them were loose. When I changed them myself I did not want to over thighten them I guess I did not tighten them enough I thought I did.
A few weeks ago I went and bought a snap on torque wrench. My car drive well now.

[rhl]

Originally posted by paul e
...
Whats strange is that with an aftercooler and water injection, american OBDII m3s are able to handle this much boost without their engines coming apart...and without lowering compression ratios..AA used to lower CRs on their OBDIs...but on their OBDIIs, theyre making this much boost without it. So is Dinan on some of his signature hi boost vehicles...

Sorry if this is a bit OT. Paul, we've already talked about this buddy Yes you and others here run 10+psi on US motors but how many of you do regular 150+mph or top speed runs?. Not just once or twice a year but once or twice an hour while flying down the Autobahn on the way to the Nurburgring, where you'll be at WOT for ~9mins and hit over 130mph many times?!?. US cars don't see the same kind of use as the Euro ones and can therefore be 'tuned' closer to the ragged edge.

RHL

[rhl]

Originally posted by m3k
... How are you running your car at 170 mph? Thats a lot of gearing thinking that the euro m3's top out at a supposed 180mph

Again this is a bit OT, well maybe not since the thread was pretty vague. The Euro 3.2's hit the computer limited top speed of ~155mph in both 5th and 6th gears. I don't have the #'s in front of me but a stock Euro 3.2L (all were 6spds w/3.23) will do just over 185mph in 6th at 7600rpm *if* you have the power to push it or a BIG downhill.

RHL