328 Ci problem

wilkr1 · #1 (**permalink**) 01-09-2004, 06:13 AM

Ok, i have a 2000 328 Ci,5 spd manual. 39,400 miles

On cold winter mornings i start my car and the car begins to rev, up to about 1100-1500 rpm and 2 times it just cut out, i took it to the dealer(3 times) before the warranty expired and 2 times they said they found no problem, the third time they said " Because in the winter there is more Oxygen in the gas that cause this problem, so us a lower octane (87) will correct the problem, but i still have the same problem.

My question is has anyone experienced this and will i have to pay(Should i bitch, if i do??) for this when i go back to dealer to have problem corrected now that warranty is up??

Just feel like selling the damn car, also had clucth problems, first time i paid $1200 to replace the clutch, started having trouble again, they replace the clutch again saying i had a bad clucth assemble. Car is a money pit, i had a '96 maxima befor and had only to take it to the dealer to have the oil changed. This car i have been to the dealer at least 6times for various problems since buying this car.

3erdriver · #2 (**permalink**) 01-09-2004, 12:54 PM

I have similar issues with my '01 325i. the only difference is that i've never had my car cut out. it just idles rough for a second or two and then goes normal after i give it some gas to warm up the engine. (as with you this happens only in cold weather) if you figre out exactly what that is or how to fix it let me know i'm out of warranty as well so i am interested

tdc · #3 (**permalink**) 01-09-2004, 02:59 PM

Sounds like a problem with the secondary air pump and/or secondary air valve.

Mind if I ask who your dealer is?

AnZero · #4 (**permalink**) 01-10-2004, 03:46 AM

I had the same problem with my 328Ci. Problem was fixed after the idle control valve was replaced and the DME was reprogrammed.

wilkr1 · #5 (**permalink**) 01-10-2004, 06:22 AM

My dealer is PACE BMW, in Mamaroneck.
If it is idle control valve, and it has to be replaced will i have to pay for this since my warranty is up, and i have had this problem before the warranty expired??

tdc · #6 (**permalink**) 01-10-2004, 06:46 AM

If it is on record that you've had this issue prior to your warranty being expired, you need to press that fact.

They should perform the service under warranty. Or at least goodwill it.

Kassel · #7 (**permalink**) 01-10-2004, 08:57 PM

i have a 328ci and i hear that happen but it never cuts out, sometimes it gets close and sounds like it will, but never has yet

Mpower619 · #8 (**permalink**) 01-11-2004, 01:48 AM

I have the same problem and it also cuts out but after the car warms up it goes away so I really dont worry to much about it..I think it is the secondary pump........

TG328TG · #9 (**permalink**) 01-12-2004, 08:45 AM

IT CAN BE YOUR IDLE CONTROL VALVE BUT MORE LIKELY IT IS YOUR VANOS UNIT...I HAD THIS ISSUE AND I WORK FOR A DEALER SO IT WAS RECTIFIED FOR ME QUICKLY.....IF IT IS ON RECORD BEFORE YOUR WARRANTY EXPIRED AND THEY ARE A "REPUTABLE" DEALER YOU SHOULD BE FINE......IF YOUR CAR "ALMOST" DIES OUT...IT WILL PROGRESSIVELY GET WORSE AS TIME GOES ON AND IT WILL ONLY HAPPEN ON THE COLD STARTS...ONCE THE ENGINE HAS BEEN WARMED UP, IT WILL NOT HAPPEN

kvcicca · #10 (**permalink**) 01-12-2004, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tdc
Sounds like a problem with the secondary air pump and/or secondary air valve.

I would LOVE to hear how the HELL this could cause a poor running/stalling condition when this has NO effect on how the car runs at all.

TG328TG's diag sounds more like it. It is either the VANOS sticking in the wrong postion (do you still use BMW 5W-30 oil)? Or it could be a cam sensor, (but almost always sets a fault code), or a software issue. Good luck.

tdc · #11 (**permalink**) 01-12-2004, 03:43 PM

Well, if he were asking about poor running or rough running during normal operation then I could see how you don't see how it has an affect.

However, he stated the problem is during COLD STARTS and more often than not it's due to the secondary air valve (non-return valve) becoming contaminated.

Might want to check SIB 12 04 00.

kvcicca · #12 (**permalink**) 01-12-2004, 06:58 PM

huh?

12 04 00 is talking about a cust complaint of a check engine light. It does NOT mention stalling or high RPM, or rough run............

I change a secondary air pump once a week, and have never had a complaint of anything except a check engine light.

tdc · #13 (**permalink**) 01-12-2004, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by wilkr1
Ok, i have a 2000 328 Ci,5 spd manual. 39,400 miles

On cold winter mornings i start my car and the car begins to rev, up to about 1100-1500 rpm and 2 times it just cut out, i took it to the dealer(3 times) before the warranty expired and 2 times they said they found no problem, the third time they said " Because in the winter there is more Oxygen in the gas that cause this problem, so us a lower octane (87) will correct the problem, but i still have the same problem.

My question is has anyone experienced this and will i have to pay(Should i bitch, if i do??) for this when i go back to dealer to have problem corrected now that warranty is up??

Just feel like selling the damn car, also had clucth problems, first time i paid $1200 to replace the clutch, started having trouble again, they replace the clutch again saying i had a bad clucth assemble. Car is a money pit, i had a '96 maxima befor and had only to take it to the dealer to have the oil changed. This car i have been to the dealer at least 6times for various problems since buying this car.

I still don't see where he says it's running rough.

And we've had about a dozen cars come in with stalling issues on cold starts and it's been the the valve every time - regardless of a check engine light being illuminated or not.

kvcicca · #14 (**permalink**) 01-13-2004, 06:57 PM

He states: " and 2 times it just cut out" .

I understood cut out to mean stall.

I still am confused as to how this valve would cause any driveabilty issue. If you know a way, it would be helpful to me of you told me how, and I would maybe consider checking this valve on a stalling condition. I have thought about it and cannot see any way this valve would make a car stall (even if it wasn't on the engine).

peeweeherman · #15 (**permalink**) 01-27-2004, 10:25 PM

Yeah I got the same exact problem when it is really cold also. My car works just fine, sometimes it cuts out and the idle bounces up and down when the car starts to warm up. Once the car gets running and warm it doesn't do it anymore. If the car had a choke than I would say that it was just confused as to what to adjust to from the cold weather to when it gets warm. It's like the car realizes it's getting warmer and than goes to normal idle, but it's too low while the car is too low so it jumps back up and sometimes it can cut out and die. Although it doesn't do this when it's warm, and runs perfect no matter what temp while driving and also just idle when the car is warmed up. So I have no clue what is doing it to my car. I just go along with it unless it is going to trip some sensors (which it hasn't).