Clutch Slave Installation...

[droeck]

Okay, so I've done plenty of research now on m3f, bfc, dtm, etc and still have one remaining question about the proper installation of the clutch slave cylinder. I know that you have to be careful when lining it up to make sure the piston hits the fork, but how do you know if it's lined up correctly?

All of the posts I've read mention that the piston could potentially pop out and into the bellhousing if not lined up properly. I feel that removing the transmission will surpass my mechanical ability, so I don't want to screw this up.

Cliff notes: How do you ensure the slave piston is lined up correctly thereby avoiding the transmission removal debacle I've read about.

Thanks in advance for your help / insights.

Daniel

[BadGTho]

hey,

it's pretty easy... you can use a tiny amount of grease to help the piston stay in place.

to line up the piston in the hole to ensure that it contacts the clutch fork correctly, start both nuts about 1-2 threads and just make sure that it's centered... that's all there is too it!

[droeck]

Originally Posted by BadGTho

hey,

it's pretty easy... you can use a tiny amount of grease to help the piston stay in place.

to line up the piston in the hole to ensure that it contacts the clutch fork correctly, start both nuts about 1-2 threads and just make sure that it's centered... that's all there is too it!

Cool....thanks for the info. Seems like it's not as bad as some make it out to be if you just take your time and do it right.

I'll get it done in the next day or so.

Daniel

[BadGTho]

Originally Posted by droeck

Cool....thanks for the info. Seems like it's not as bad as some make it out to be if you just take your time and do it right.

I'll get it done in the next day or so.

Daniel

it's quite easy.. access to the bolts is what's tough.. use a 1/4" drive with a wobble and extension.

the don't depress the pedal until you're sure it's all bolted in correctly.

i've never had an issue with this.

[droeck]

Originally Posted by BadGTho

it's quite easy.. access to the bolts is what's tough.. use a 1/4" drive with a wobble and extension.

the don't depress the pedal until you're sure it's all bolted in correctly.

i've never had an issue with this.

Seems simple enough. Thanks again for the replies.

I need to go and pick up a wobble extension tonight so I can get to this. Also, have a few more goodies to go on the car, including x-brace, mm underpanel, new nosepanel and bumper, and few misc odds and ends.

Thanks again!
Daniel

[99MPower]

Daniel....

while the 1/4" and wobble will work, I've found that a 12" - 3/8" extension with the socket on the end is perfect... it allows you to come from behind the slave cylinder with no interference, and being larger around, easy to use with no ratchet wrench on the end until the very last little bit...

similar concept to when you need to pull the transmission, and need like 30"+ of extensions..

[BadGTho]

update...

my slave felt vague and my clutch was dragging slightly at a stop.. i pulled the slave to inspect it and BANG, the pushrod shot into the bellhousing.

my karma sucks, but i had just enough luck to find the rod in the bellhousing, sitting on a ledge and get it out with the help of Fiveightandten as well as a small screwdriver and some magnets.

i was really not excited about pulling the tranny... that's been avoided for now.

i went with a new FTE slave and a stainless UUC line. the problem is slightly improved but the clutch feel is phenomenal. for anyone who goes under the car to bleed the clutch, do the CDV delete etc.. get that UUC line.

it's like 30 bucks and improves pedal feel. the before and after view was amazing.. before the UUC line, the hose would move quite a bit when the clutch was depressed. the UUC line is solid as a rock and does not move AT ALL.

moral of the story.. be safe with slaves.. it can happen to anyone.

[droeck]

Hmmm...nice update on the thread. Glad to hear you got the pushrod out okay....that would be a biatch otherwise!

I also went with an FTE slave (formerly known as FAG!) and it feels fine along with fresh ATE super blue. Only thing different is the engagement. It now picks up only an inch or so from the floor whereas before it seemed to be somewhere in the middle. Oh well...

[BadGTho]

Originally Posted by droeck

Hmmm...nice update on the thread. Glad to hear you got the pushrod out okay....that would be a biatch otherwise!

I also went with an FTE slave (formerly known as FAG!) and it feels fine along with fresh ATE super blue. Only thing different is the engagement. It now picks up only an inch or so from the floor whereas before it seemed to be somewhere in the middle. Oh well...

yeh.. FTE and FAG are the same...


if your clutch is catching that low.. it needs to be bled.

bleed it with the slave out of the tranny so the bleeder points up. use a power bleeder.

[droeck]

Originally Posted by BadGTho

yeh.. FTE and FAG are the same...


if your clutch is catching that low.. it needs to be bled.

bleed it with the slave out of the tranny so the bleeder points up. use a power bleeder.

I just took the car around the block a little while ago for the first time since new slave install. I guess the clutch engagement isn't as bad as I thought originally, but it's definitely closer to the floor than the top of the travel. Is there an OEM spec for clutch engagement? Any negative consequences of the clutch engaging closer to the floor than not?

I did use a power bleeder, but I did not bleed the slave off the tranny. Frankly, I'm not all that keen on getting back under the car for a while as it seems I've spent too many late nights under there already, replacing all vital fluids, installing x-brace, new fender liners, fogs, nose panel, bumper, and MM underpanel. I still can't seem to get that damn diff fluid smell out of my head.

Oh well, I'll probably re-bleed it here sometime soon. Thanks for the info!

[BadGTho]

i'm not aware of the spec.. the clutch engaging too low could mean it does not fully engage.

park the car, put it in neutral, shut if off and pump the clutch rapicly about 100 times.

that should bring the pedal up a bit.

[droeck]

Originally Posted by BadGTho

i'm not aware of the spec.. the clutch engaging too low could mean it does not fully engage.

park the car, put it in neutral, shut if off and pump the clutch rapicly about 100 times.

that should bring the pedal up a bit.

Yeah, I was afraid that it might mean it's not engaging fully.

I'll get in there and work the clutch tonight when I get home.

Thanks for the advice!
Daniel

[BadGTho]

they way to tell and what we did with my car... get all 4 wheels in the air.. run the car, shift into first and see if the tires spin in first with the clutch to the floor.

[droeck]

Originally Posted by BadGTho

they way to tell and what we did with my car... get all 4 wheels in the air.. run the car, shift into first and see if the tires spin in first with the clutch to the floor.

I did this when I had it on jacks last week. The wheels did not spin in first with the clutch engaged. Actually, I had the wheels off, so just the hubs. However, I did notice that when I depressed the clutch and shifted into 1st, that the hubs did spin slightly for just a moment and then stopped. Is this a symptom of the clutch not fully engaging?

Thanks again!

[BadGTho]

Originally Posted by droeck

I did this when I had it on jacks last week. The wheels did not spin in first with the clutch engaged. Actually, I had the wheels off, so just the hubs. However, I did notice that when I depressed the clutch and shifted into 1st, that the hubs did spin slightly for just a moment and then stopped. Is this a symptom of the clutch not fully engaging?

Thanks again!

mine did the exact same thing.. that is a symptom of a slightly dragging clutch.

after the new slave, the UUC line and bleed mine is significantly improved.