| ||||||||||||||||||
| | ||||||||||||||||||
|
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| |||
| What oil weight do you use? hello, I just recently bought a 99 m3 last saturday plan on doing an oil change in a day or two. ( i like synthetic much more then conventional oil). i have some 5w-30 castrol european formula in my garage. i read the factory weight is 10w-40. is it okay to go to 5w-30? or should i stay with 10w-40. i live in seattle, so average temperature is ~60 f. and maybe 80 during summer on good days. |
| |
| ||||
| This really has been covered a lot... There is some funky voodoo black magic garbage that most e36 M3 owners hold to here in the states... Let me try to simplify this for you: If your car came with dino-juice - stick with dino-juice... In 1999 it was a 15w40 mineral based oil - I'll do a little research as to the options for you if you confirm that this is what you need... Or if you really want to switch to a synthetic; go with AMSOIL 10w-40... It is thicker than most other synthetic oils of the same rating - and as such it is more compatible with cars used to the thicker natural oil. If your car came with synthetic - in 1999 that would have been a 5w40 synth that BMW NA doesn't recommend any more... There was a service bulletin that changed this to the 5w30 castrol bmw oil... Go with this. it's a great oil for cars that have lived with synth oil all their life. I last talked about this topic in this thread: 1995 M3 ticking valve? And the SIB is #110400... And the oil in question is the 5W-30 Synthetic: P/N 07.51.0.017.866 ... There was a switch in e36 M3's sent to the US sometime during 1998 build dates from the dino juice to the synthetic I mentioned above. Give your build date and your VIN to the dealer and they can tell you which oil your car shipped with originally...
__________________ ![]() [Ethan "if it weren't for that cone" Connor | 99 M3 #89 BS] Last edited by nondescript : 05-22-2008 at 07:36 PM. |
| |||
| I live in Idaho so with temps running from -15 in the winter to 100+ in the summer. In the winter I usually ran Castrol 5w30. When summer rolled around I'd switch to a 10w40 or 15w40. In a fairly temperate climate like Seattle I don't see either having a problem. You're fine to go with 5w30 |
| |||
| I ran Lubro Moly Voll-Synthese 5w-40 my last oil change before I sold it to my buddy. He changed it a few weeks after that. It had been in the car for about 8 months and 5k miles. Still looked pretty good when it drained out but the stuff is expensive! You can go for longer oil change intervals and it's a level 4 synthetic(the stuff in the states is level 3), but probably not worth it unless you need something that stands up a long time and offers superior protection. I usually change my oil every 3-5k anyway so it's hard to justify spending the extra $ if I'm not going to use it through it's full lifespan. |
| |||
| i use motul 300v 5w40 ![]() ![]()
__________________ www.uberwerke.co.nr www.bimmersclub.org.ph ![]() e36 Dinan 325i (retired), e36 M3 Euro, e46 330cic, e38 740i |