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| First, confirm that the problem is not the fuse. The wiper arms and motor come out as an assembly. The arms have to be in the completely down position in order for it to come out. You should disconnect the battery before you start to avoid loosing a finger if someone turns on the key during the job. You will need to dismantle the air inlet cowling beneath the hood. Take the service bolt out at the hood hinge so the hood will go clear up to the service position so you can get to the cowling. After removing the screws, the plenum housing pulls upward and outward to disconnect from the firewall. The first time I did this, I was standing over the engine pulling so hard that I nearly did a back flip over the radiator when it came free. Getting this cowling snapped back together correctly after the job usually involves some colorful language on my part. Once the cowling is dismantled, the wiper assembly can be unbolted and lifted out. Then you can get to the motor and wiring to start diagnosing the problem. If you can get to the electrical plug before you get the assembly out, you will want to check that to make sure you are getting power to the motor. Good luck. These don't fail very often, so you may not find parts on-line. You may end up at the dealer. |
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| If they fail, look at upull junkyards for working ones, or as mentioned, dealership time. Hope everything works out for you.
__________________ BMW The three most powerful letters in the alphabet |
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| On a 1992 e36, there are four fuses that in some way supply current to the wiper/washer system - 36, 37, 44, and 45. On a left-drive car, looking over the driver side fender, fuses 31 though 46 are the row along the edge of the fuse block on your left (toward the front of the car). Fuse 31 is closest to you and it counts up to fuse 46 at the far end of the row. You should be able to spot a failed fuse visually, but I always test suspect fuses with an ohm meter to be sure. |