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Old 03-07-2008, 08:43 PM
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kind of weird suspension problem

I've got a 1986 325es which happens to be my 7th car, but it is also my first car with without stage 3 suspension. While I was changing my control arm a week or so ago I broke off the already rusted sway bar shackles (probably using the sway bar for leverage) but oh well they needed to be replaced anyway. Driving without the sway bar connected to anything other than the control arms sent me veering at even the most minute bump above 65mph. After picking up the new shackles, installing them along with a custom short shifter I go for a test drive.. 65 good, 75 good, but at 80-85 if I hit a bump it gives me a little wiggle then straightens itself out. If I'm going 30-35 and hit a gnarly bump it does the same thing. The steering wheel moves with it too. When I go above 80 it feels like I'm driving an old school Cadillac.

What do you think is up? I know the shock mounts in the rear are crazily worn. I can hear it. I believe the wheel bearings need to be done too, or the differential fluid needs a change. I can hear something whirring at slow speeds. I did not change the sway bar links though. Even though you should anytime they're disconnected, but they looked in O.K. shape. It's almost like there is some kind of pre-load on the sway bar. When I hit a bump it's released.

Keep in mind I just bought this car it had a decent impact on the passenger front wheel the inner ball joint was destroyed/ bent, would a very minor bend in the sway bar (minor enough that I wouldn't notice) cause this? Am I just comparing the stock suspension to race springs, shocks/ struts? You wouldn't think a BMW would be this bad.

I haven't checked out the rear as of yet. If it's not horribly below freezing tomorrow I'll check everything back there, but it definitely seems to be coming from the front end. I did not replace the driver side control arm, think maybe the ball joint is gone in that one too? I don't think my steering rack is loose, at least it looks tight.

Any ideas would be helpful so feel free to chime in. I planned on keeping this e30 original for the most part. Other than an "I" cam, exhaust, and after market turbo but if this is was stock suspension is it's gotta go.
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:43 PM
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It's un-belivable I haven't gotten a reply.. Maybe I should have posted in the general section...

Any ways I have an update. I have replaced the sway bar bushings, shackles, end links, brackets, the complete control arm and all associated bushings/ ball joints and tie rods. The problem had gotten a little better this past week, but the last two days or so the problem reappeared and had gotten worse. Today I decided enough was enough and I parked it in my garage awaiting a new strut and strut mount for that side.

This will mean that everything on the passenger front is completely new. Also when I try to align the car the tie rod is adjusted all the way in but the wheel is still toe out. I have to compensate on the other side and adjust the steering wheel so at least it looks right.

Can anybody think of anything that I am overlooking? I am glad that everything I have replaced are common wear parts and needed it anyways.
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:13 AM
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How about the rear end? What kinda shock/springs you running?

I rarely check out DTM. You will get more traffic at rev,e30tech, or bimmerforums. Nothing against DTM (actually my first forum) but not visited often.
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:09 PM
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This thing is bone stock. It's my side project right now, but I'm literally two seconds away from swapping all of the suspension over from my other one. I wanted to avoid race springs on this one, and keep it for my daily driver most roads are harsh here in NH through the winter. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front end. There's no doubt the rear mounts are worn pretty bad, but the front wheel won't align it's toe out even with the tie rod adjusted all the way in. Everything but the strut and mount are brand new on this corner of the suspension and most of the other side too.
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or on drugs and we're peaking.
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if thrown stray your whole operation will seize.
No one ever said life was easy.
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:55 AM
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I was actually installing some bilsteins on mine last night and when I pulled the shock out of the housing, oil just poured out. The shock was blown and I didn't even know it. The car did make some creaking noises over speed bumps but i thought that since there was 150K on them, they just need replacing.

Im reaching now but rotate tires maybe? If the front spoiler is gone or bent, air may not be flowing correctly.
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:38 AM
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Rims and tires are all brand new. I'm going to just pull the whole strut assembly and have a shop swap the strut out. They said a half hour in labor. Throw in a new mount while I'm there. I'll do the same thing next week on the other side, and get an alignment next week. Then my whole front suspension will be brand new except for the springs which ought to fully cure my issue. If this doesn't fix it I don't even know where to begin next.
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No one ever said life was easy.
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:11 PM
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Well I have put in all my stage 3 suspension from my other E30. I found out the problem was a mix of a few things... The rear shock mounts were in really bad shape, the shocks were completely blown, front passenger strut was blown. NONE of the suspension was stock. It must have been swapped by some old lady shopping at VIP, or some hack-job mechanic. and because it was so tall it was adding positive camber! I knew this was the highest E30 I have ever seen! So all in all I got what I wanted. Even though I wanted to retain the ride height and comfortability at first. After a week I realized I would rather have a nice stiff ride.Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

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Specifically integral parts as if a machine we're speaking,
or on drugs and we're peaking.
Living slow but constant.
Seemingly meaningless peices
if thrown stray your whole operation will seize.
No one ever said life was easy.
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Old 04-24-2008, 04:04 PM
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check your tierod (where it connects to the steering rack) by jacking up your front end and if you can turn your tire and it moves even a little bit before your other one does then replace your tierods.


Tierods helped make my steering 20 times more precise, id give it a try also what tires are you running? The tires may be too narrow causing this Cadillac felling.
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Old 04-24-2008, 05:22 PM
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Well the tie rods were both replaced with the control arm Meyle was the brand I believe. One thing I was thinking was when the impact happened, if it deformed the hole in the subframe where the ball joint bolts through. But the problem has majorly improved with the suspension swap. This thing was soo tall. I don't know what it came out of. It's like it's now gone, but bump steer has presented itself. Either way I'm parting out my other E30 sadly so the subframe will be swapped over in the next couple weeks whenever I find time, just for peace of mind. I'm planning on adding m3 style sway bar tabs on the strut assembly. So I can use adjustable sway bar links to take off any pre-load. Plus it gives much better leverage.

btw I've heard that the power steering delete causes major bump steer? Any idea if this is true? If so where can I find a larger p.s. pump pulley?
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Diagnally parked, in a parallel universe.
Specifically integral parts as if a machine we're speaking,
or on drugs and we're peaking.
Living slow but constant.
Seemingly meaningless peices
if thrown stray your whole operation will seize.
No one ever said life was easy.
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