2.8 stroker help

[kissinger]

I own an 89’ 325i. It was running rich at start up and leaving black sooty deposits on the back of the car. Figured it needed a tune-up, cap, rotor, and sparkplug wires. A short time later I broke a rocker arm. I unassembled heads and noticed cam was badly scored. I decided to rebuild motor, used my 2.7crank Ross pistons, 272 cam complete head rebuild – larger 1mm exhaust valve, 19 lbs m30 injectors lightened flywheel balanced motor. I also noticed intake didn’t match head very well so I ported intake to match. Ran lean upper rpm, changed back to stock chip. Motor real hard to start and still black sooty deposits smells rich at startup black smoke. Changed coil msd blaster, cap and rotor runs stronger but no change. All parts spec out tps, 02, air bypass, crank pulse, cat don’t work also have m30 Afm to install. I have planed to upgrade to IE fuel regulator could this fix my cold and warm start problem. I believe it runs rich because i have to floor it to start it after many cranks it almost won’t run then it runs and smokes after its warm it runs great?

[Ole703]

Try getting it tuned? What octane fuel are you running? Sounds like your either need a tune real bad. I am unsure of the size of the stock injectors. Try running those. 19lb injectors may be too big. But, you are running a configuration that I have never personally delt with. It does sound like your getting too much fuel and not enough air in the mixture. Good luck and I hope it works out good for you.

[kissinger]

running 91 pump, installed afpr and afm it runs real strong great power, starts right up now but still runs rich at idle, went to pretest car to see how its running, hc are to high at idle great through rpm range wont pass smog need to figure this out. will replace wires and o2 soon and intresting that smog shop said cat was working at rpm range i thought it was no good 200,000 miles on it and a rich condition no water vapor i wonder if i even need it at all ?

[Fidhle007]

First of all, try complete sentances... Secondly, what condition is your ICV in?

[kissinger]

Well ICV vibrates, 44 ohms outer terminals and 23/21 ohms center outer terminals. AFM intake temp sensor 4200 ohms cold and 2200 warm, seems high according to Bently. Engine light was blinking at WFO seems to run better with stiffer AFM spring tension. Dont know were to go from here except replace wires or 02, can i change to wide ban 02 because i would like to megasquirt soon?

[E30stain]

if u get it workin fairly well soon post up some dyno figures i wanna know whether its worth the moeny 'improving' my m20 thats sittin in the shed before attatching it to a 325

[kissinger]

Well smog was required and I pre tested at 1500 HC, smog tech told me that I have too much cam overlap (272 cam) and would not pass. Often people come up to me and ask if I stuffed a v8 in here lol. I found info on AFM adjustments here in forums and learned how to change spring tension and CO adj. with Allen key. I went back and made Adj. while pre testing, HC went way down tech thought his computer was malfunctioning lol and reset it. I passed with 7 HC and .01 CO they couldn’t believe it.

I still have a couple problems; my car is hard starting when it sets after warmed up, have to floor it to start? When it’s cold it starts right up, I think the Dme doesn’t know how to open injectors? Think I need correct chip or megasquirt? I have a Bavauto chip and my car pings real bad between 4000-5500 rpm when WFO I think spark timing to advance so I run stock chip. I wonder if I need to change cam timing.

[the afro guy]

i'd say the problem is in the uprated injectors. usually when you go for higher capacity injectors it's a good idea to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. most people run them at 2.5bar when the injectors are first installed to give the ecu a chance to figure out whats going on, then they jump it up to 3.0 bar once
everything is sweet.

could also just be that your injectors are clogged and need to be serviced.

if that doesn't work then maybe your afm is still playing up or might be buggered. maybe find someone that has the same motor as you and try their afm to see if that makes a difference?

having to floor it to start sounds wrong. this isn't a carbie fed car.

the 325i is a little harder to sort out yourself than say a 325e because it runs a different version of the motronic computer. certain things can only be adjusted when it's plugged into a computer. personally i'd take it to a mechanic with all the right gear for tuning m20's and get them to diagnose the problem these things can be an expensive pain in the arse to fix if you're doing it by trial and error

[kissinger]

Injectors were serviced (m30), I have IE afpr, upgraded to m30 afm 027 and I upgraded to motronic 380 couple months back 173 acting funny.
I will back off fuel and unplug computer to reset it hopefully this will work.
Thanks for the post

[the afro guy]

is cool. keep us posted on how it turns out though. i'm looking at doing a few things like that to my car in the near future and want to see what works and what to do when it doesn't!