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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2005, 07:16 PM
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Ugh...Simple Green. No way that stuff gets anywhere near anything aluminum I own. Aluminum oxidizes badly enough without using SG to make it worse.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2005, 12:47 PM
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if you have a problem with oxidization...try a diluted dose of phospheric acid, this stuff is mainly used for clean metals like chrome and aluminium, and prevents rusting....i used this stuff on wheels to it works really well on alloy or chrome wheels with baked on brake dust.....a half a gallon is like 8 bucks, a half gallon will make about 2 gallons of solution 4:1 ratio with water
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2005, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corwyn
Ugh...Simple Green. No way that stuff gets anywhere near anything aluminum I own. Aluminum oxidizes badly enough without using SG to make it worse.

oh shucks... well i was jsut about to get me a first bottle of that stuff.. Well, darn what is there to use then..
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2006, 07:35 AM
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Simple green is great, but try a combo of the wd-40 on metal components. On my dirtbikes and atvs, we spray wd-40 on the motors after they are washed and it cleans and degreases everything. Id be careful and use any product sparingly. Try to use just a Mr. Clean magic eraser perhaps?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2006, 11:35 AM
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Easy way to clean the bay:

2 Cans of degreaser (usually takes 1.5 cans per cleaning)
1 Can CD-2 (one can will last you a long long long time)

Should be able to find Degreaser and CD-2 at your local auto parts store.

Follow directions on both cans. Piece of cake. I've done this on both my old '01 Civic and my Hawk, just don't go crazy w/ the water hose pressure and you'll be okay.

CD-2 can give a glossy/wet appearnce (notice the top of my intake manifold), something to note if you want a matte finish instead. But it'd be easy enough to wipe off some of the excess.

The following shot is w/ me doing hardly any physical wiping down, it was pretty dirty too (you can see I missed a spot in the belt tensioner pully, that gives you an idea of how dirty it was before)

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2006, 12:51 PM
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true true
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2006, 02:09 AM
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my engine looks like a pigs ass grease everywere i just bought it and it had a engine convo. so what you guys are saying is to use wd-40 or a engine de-greaser and lightly hose it off. what about the electricts what do i do about them??? just avoid getting them wet at all. or can they take a little spray and lastly what is cd 2
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2006, 07:35 AM
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you can put plastic bags and rubber bands on sensitive electrical ares and or be real careful when hosing down.

1. spray degreaser on engine let sit for a few minutes
2. brush or wipe heavily soiled areas
3. hose off
4. spray down with WD-40 (this will give a great shine plus displace water)
Do not get WD-40 on belts
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2006, 09:09 AM
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some good tips as always Dewey
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2006, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW_735I
what is cd 2
It's an engine detailer spray I guess made by Turtle Wax (their site sucks btw)
See if this works: http://www.cd-2products.com/products/pages/4516-6.htm

A write up about it
http://more-power.blogspot.com/2005/...eaner-and.html
(it's sold as an individual can in the States, guess in UK it can come in a 'kit' w/ a degreaser + the CD-2)

Before:

After:


This is the only Australian contact # I could find on their site:
Company: Selleys Ptd Limited
Address: 1 Gow Street
Padstow 2211 NSW
Australia
Tel: 612 9707 8111
Fax: 612 9707 8225

Looks like you can also get it shipped worldwide from an Ebay seller.. just search for "CD2 engine detailer"
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Last edited by Mike 01hawk : 02-10-2006 at 08:00 PM.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2006, 04:51 PM
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thanks guys you rule
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2006, 06:30 AM
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Don't go with WD40. It contains harsh solvents that are strong oxidizers. It will add shine but it will shorten the life of all you rubber and plastic peices. You are much better off using a true water based dressing that shines like the wd40 but will add proper nourishment and moisture to plastic and rubber. Many of the water based conditioners also contain UV blockers and other additives that slow oxidation as opposed to increasing it.

Brett @ OCD
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2006, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCDGarage
Don't go with WD40. It contains harsh solvents that are strong oxidizers. It will add shine but it will shorten the life of all you rubber and plastic peices. You are much better off using a true water based dressing that shines like the wd40 but will add proper nourishment and moisture to plastic and rubber. Many of the water based conditioners also contain UV blockers and other additives that slow oxidation as opposed to increasing it.

Brett @ OCD
Do you have any examples of good water-based dressings to use?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2006, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corwyn
Do you have any examples of good water-based dressings to use?
There are many water based dressing on the market. Keep in mind many contain silicone. Silicone is not the problem it the harsh solvents like xylene and benzine that are so damaging to plastic and rubber. My favorite water based dressings would be:

303 Aerospace Protectant
OneGrand ERV (non silicone)
Vinylex (non silicone)

I would stay away from Armor-all. I don't know if they changed their formulation but I believe it use to contain formaldehyde.

Brett @ OCD
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2006, 11:06 AM
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Thanks, Brett. I knew that Armor-All isn't good, but I didn't know what is (seems like most of the stuff at Autozone is silicone-based).
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