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| Removing acid rain spots in clearcoat. Guys my clearcoat has serious acid rain stop damage, ive been reading up that it is removable..but i couldnt find any site with step by step procedures on how i should go about it. Does anybody have any advice on how to do it? Or, shoudl I just leave it up to a detailing place to do it? Thx. Seb |
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| You will need a buffer, and honestly, more than likely a rotary buffer and some heavy cut compound/polish to remove acid rain etching, but it really depends on the severity of the damage. A picture would certainly help us determine to a better level what would be required. Perhaps a PC would be able to remove the damage, but it is unlikely. Honestly, your best bet is to go over to autopia.org and post up that you need to find a detailer in the Toronto area, there are quite a few weekend enthusiasts that I am sure would be willing to help you for a reasonable amount. |
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| Information source: Mike Phillips, Technical Specialist,1-800-854-8073 ext. 189, mphillips@meguiars.com Quote: Guys my clearcoat has serious acid rain stop damage, ive been reading up that it is removable..but i couldnt find any site with step by step procedures on how i should go about it. Does anybody have any advice on how to do it? Or, shoudl I just leave it up to a detailing place to do it? I couldn’t find the link so here is the thread- Only work a small area at a time - about 6 inch by 6 inch area or smaller Apply using a combination of circular motions and straight-line motions Work the product against the finish for about 3-4 minutes; it should look as you have almost run out of product. Re-apply the product and repeat the above steps 2-3 more times When I apply ScratchX like I have listed above, I am able to get out about 95% of a bird dropping etching or isolated random scratches. The trick is to work the product in until it just begins to disappear and to apply more than one application. You see, the ScratchX, like all Meguiar's Paint Cleaners, contain a diminishing abrasive, as you work ScratchX in, the microscopic diminishing abrasives gently abrade the surface removing small particles of paint. But as you work it in, these diminishing abrasives breakdown. Thus, they quit abrading the finish and actually polish the finish to a clear, high gloss. This diminishing action turned polishing action is a benefit to you because it enable you to work out defects without leaving scratches behind. Because the diminishing abrasive breakdown, you need to re-apply and repeat the process until the defects are removed. Note: You can rarely remove a bird dropping etching, or a scratch, from a clear-coated finish with one application. "A little technique goes a long way" ScratchX works, if you work it. It takes a little practice to get the hang of removing defects out of modern clear coats with hi-tech products like ScratchX. It' not like the old days with a traditional lacquer or enamel paint job where you could apply some old-fashioned rubbing compound and in a few passes, the scratch would be gone, (and so would a lot of your paint). High gloss clear coats are thin delicate surface coatings that are easily dulled and easily scratched. Once they are dulled down and/or scratched, it takes the right product, the right technique together with the human element of care and passion to massage them back to a glistening gemstone. Have patience, and if at first you don't succeed, try, try again. Mike __________________ ~Hope this helps~ Knowledge unshared is experience wasted justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ Jon |
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| Thanks a lot for the help guys im gonna give it a try. and let you guys know how it goes, if i cant get it out ill post up a pic and give that site a try to find a detailer in the area. Hopefully it will work with the scratch x method though. (i just noticed a typo in my post, i meant acid rain spot, not stop which makes no sense) |