Have a waxing question...

[Kompressor]

Long story short I'm waxing a guys car on Tuesday but the thing is he just waxed it a few weeks before. So should I do something to take it off or should I wax it over the original wax or not wax at all.

Thanks.

[Greg]

It really makes no difference really. Wax doesn't bond to paint, so really you are just creating a more uniform film build. You can strip it off, but unless you are going to do more than a wash and wax, it really doesn't matter.

[Kompressor]

I'm trying to do a full detail on this car. Do you have any suggestions for anything else to buy like polishes or soemthing? (Not too much money )

Thanks.

[Greg]

What's you detailing experience?

[Kompressor]

Not as much as you, that's for damn sure. Not planning on using anything harsh (rotary buffer, wet-sanding, etc.).

[lordzeke]

Just throw a nice hand coat on with some good polish and then use some soft cotton terrys or even micro fiber towels and wipe all the wax off. Be sure not to cake any wax into the some seams or cracks, it'll be just more work for you. I've been using Autoglym for a few years now, it's kinda of hard to get hold of, but it's well worth. Once I found this stuff I've never went back to anything else.

[dr00t]

Originally posted by Kompressor
Long story short I'm waxing a guys car on Tuesday but the thing is he just waxed it a few weeks before. So should I do something to take it off or should I wax it over the original wax or not wax at all.

Thanks.

YES!

I am surprised nobody caught this earlier.

If the car has an existing layer of wax, you need to wash the car using DAWN soap. Dawn soap is unlike any other soap. It is essentially "ANTI-Wax". Once you have washed the entire car in Dawn soap, you can then start doing your thing. BUT, just make sure if you do use Dawn soap..you NEED to re-wax in the same-day. Make sure and tell the car's owner NOT to wash his car with anything except a specific "Car Wash Soap" after that. I recommend a reddish/purple jug of McGuires Car Wash Soap that can easily be purchased at any Auto Zone.

If you have more specific questions about the process of a full detail, feel free to ask.

-Dan

[Greg]

Why does he need to remove the wax? Its not hurting anything and you can't get a measurable film build from wax, you simple add a more uniform density of wax. Also, Dawn is extremely harsh on rubber trim. The only reason Dawn was ever recommended for a wash is by Zaino which requires an oil free surface prior to Zainoing because of the chemical bonds formed. Wax doesn't bond to paint, hence the reason one can use a glaze prior to waxing. If you are really worried about prior wax being there, use a 50/50 mixtures of isopropanol/water, it will remove the oils from the surface that might inhibit bonding of a sealant.

Dawn is for dishes. Don't use it for cars.

[dr00t]

Greg, I'm sorry, but you're wrong.

Dawn repells wax.

I asked this question on the Autopia forums assuming you might see it, but I guess you did not. But a simple answer to your theory would be as follows:

Joe from Autopia writes:

If you wax the car, then wash it with dawn, you won't have wax on the car anymore. Usually you want to dawn the car before you begin detailing so if you polish, you know you're polishing the paint surface rather than having to cut through the existing wax first.

Initially, I personally found it hard to believe. Once I decided to test this Dawn idea, it became apparent. The workload is much easier and you can produce a more "Perfect Shine".

[Greg]

Trust me man, I know what Dawn does for cars. If you are polishing, the microscopic layer of wax will be removed instantly. Wax is not hard to take off of paint. There is no "cutting through exisiting wax." Claying will remove wax, 3 car washes will remove a layer of wax, the second you hit the paint with any kind of polish/cleaner/compound, the wax is gone and the wax most certainly does not interfere with the polish doing its job. Dawn is nothing more than a strong/harsh detergent. Like I said, if you feel the need to remove the wax for whatever reason, just hit it with some isopropanol alcohol/water mixture.

[dr00t]

... I guess this is just a case of having more than one way of doing something.

[lordzeke]

Greg is right, there really is no need to "take off" the wax. You start telling people to use dish soap, I hope none you use guys use any lemon or orange stuff. Stay away from that crap, it will do some damage, I guess the "acid like" cleasning eats right into your paint. Besides after a few weeks to a month and some washes the wax will start to break down on it's own. And about the clay, that stuff is awesome, it takes more work but it's well worth it espeacially for you guys that park your cars outside. Like Me!

And when you clay your paint make sure your car stays wet, don't let dry or spot up too much. When we clay cars also a few drops of soap for each panel and buff all those spots of your paint. Dry it real good then use your favorite wax. We use this process for every car and it never fails to leave a fantastic shine.
And for guys that can handle a high speed buffer, will get even BETTER results!!

[dr00t]

Well, I guess my DAWN soaping knowledge was wrong coming from Autopia.org (The most expert detailing forum on the net) and my 5 years of detailing cars with one of the largest client bases in Indianapolis (No complaints yet).

Anyhow, as I stated, I think its just one of those things that distinguish a professional detailer from an amature.

In regards to the clay bar water spots. I agree, you should always lubricate the area you are claying and wipe with a microfiber towel as soon as possible, BUT...

If you are claying your car, you should NOT be going directly to wax after clay. You should be polishing, THEN, waxing.

I recommend you read the book by David Bynon about "The Perfect Shine". It gives explanations for all of these reasons.

Fortunately, it is free now. I paid 15 bucks for it back in the day.

http://autopia-carcare.com/freeguide.html

Hope this helps you in your detailing endeavors.