any suggestions on sub-box mounting??

[kompakt_king]

hi everyone!!
i have a e36 compact and 12' custom sub box i want to somehow mount inside my boot...the box is made to push right up against the back of the back seats.
anyone have any ideas they could share on how to mount this so I won't have to drive corners like a grampa!!
I am trying to avoid drilling it into the body but I guess if last resort...
thankyou in advance

[justlikemusic]

Is there a big wall between the seats and the boot in the compacts? I never seen one, but my old E36 I cut a big hole in there... and my E39 now I just did the same today =P I call it the BMW "curse"... I had 1100wrms pumping and it didn't pump much in the cabin, once the hole is cut it makes 10x or more difference to the sound.

Now I've used that to my advantage and sealed the subs into the cabin. It should be all fitted up tomorrow and I'll get to a build thread. I used L brackets to the rear parcel shelf to mount my sub box. The bracing under the shelf is decent to mount them to. However, the more places you mount them to (ideally 4) the better screwed in it is, and the harder it is for crims to steal your subs.

If you have a false floor, just use four brackets and tek screw the bottom of the box to that if you didn't want to drill too much... however my 25mm 2ft3 box with the pair of atomic's weighs just under 60kgs and that would rip my floor apart going sideways just tek screwed down.

If you take a picture of the boot I could shine some wisdom on where I'd suggest to mount the box.

[kompakt_king]

thanks champ!!
your help is much appreciated!!
na theres no wall between seats and boot....the seats are made to fold down to fit more things in the back of the car i guess
il have to take a picture and post it later
well done on the e39 by the way!! love those cars, trying to convince a mate of mine to get one lol
take it easy

[justlikemusic]

Yea depending on the material of the floor that would be the first approach. Then secondly brackets to the parcel shelf, but with fold down seats if the brackets are visible it doesn't look as good.

[kompakt_king]

hey there
thanks again
unfortunately for me the parcel shelf moves as well
nevertheless your reply was still useful as you have given me an idea on another mod il have to be doing....im thinking of splitting the rear parcel shelf into 2 sections... one that is fixed and the other half, hinged so that it moves up and down with the door of the boot (as it does now)
at least this way I can also box the 6x9's that are mounted to the shelf
off to bunnings i go!!
ciaos

[justlikemusic]

Another piece of advice... 6x9's reduce your sound quality. Get rid of them, or in your next system lose them, or sell them to a mate without a sub or someone who wants them.

Basically you want each set of speakers doing a certain frequency range. This will provide you with 100% maximization of sound quality. If your sub is doing around 20-100 or 120Hz then you want your Midrange speakers taking over from here and doing the higher frequencies.

On my car for example.... I have a pair of 10's (For SPL class, purely because of budget and being able to hit high numbers with $500 worth of subs (AUD) in Street A... these subs did a 152db run in an Astra.... Australian record last year was 154 with the Atomic APSPL's and I have the Atomic AP's. The only record that is held by Atomic and not by Digital Designs.... however I have a massive E39 5 series so numbers isn't going to be my thing, however if the dude with the CRX and Kickers doesn't attend with his 145's or something then I'll win every comp. When I get serious next year and get a 1976 Civic then it's all over in Street A with the Atomics. I'll win every Perth comp... these subs are the bomb.

Ok for the rear I have a pair of 8" mid-range speakers which I'll run from 100Hz upwards... controlled with the crossover. There is a 2" tweeter and 1" tweeter in that specific three way split component speaker, and I will match that to the front when I decide and fit the front speakers. Stock mounting there is a 5 and 1/4" speaker and I think a pair of 1" tweeters. The 5 and 1/4" will be playing the same frequency as the 2" speakers at the rear, and the pair of 1"s at the front will be playing the same frequency as the 1" tweeter at the rear.

This will give my speakers maximum sound quality. Now the rear speakers are from house speakers and will cop 100wrms and make it feel like someone is pressing their finger on your ear drum hard with 100wrms and have top notch sound quality. With 150wrms you will go deaf.

The front speakers I have to work out what I want up there. I'll be close to them so I was thinking of something from the Rainbow range. They are the cheapest, highest quality and nicest sounding speaker you cant get imo. I'll be staying away from the Hertz, Image Dynamics etc because they don't float my boat at all... overpriced and not worth it. The ID range I would only stick with the subs for SQ... but subs and SQ is just crap. I can appreciate the difference between my JL Audio subs (12W3) and the Atomics (Apocalypse) in quality, but don't really care. It's about speaker quality.

Don't split your parcel shelf. Put 5/6"s in there, get a 4 channel amp, put some decent speakers in the front... then fasten your sub down. It will be the best way to get quality... and really quality is what it's all about. I have had SPL car's where girls have asked to get out because they can't breathe, but loved it, and SPL car's where friends have said.... turn it down it's deafening me!

It deafen's them from the loud racket that I put crappy speakers into and the quality is so crap they can't appreciate bass. (However these were cheap $500+ setups just on front speakers and amps to run them...)

Anyway, if you have any questions, put them by me. Caraudiopro is excellent on these forums and I agree with every word he says also... and I have read every post here in the past couple years or more.