| ||||||||||||||||||
| | ||||||||||||||||||
|
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| |||
| rattling shelf - help me Hello there.... Since I've installed my rear shelf has slowly but surely begun to vibrate louder and louder. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how to fix it? From inside the trunk I dont seem to be able to see the shelf, and vibrations are mainly towards the bottom of the rear screen(closest to the boot lid). Can someone please help me? I have a 95 E36.
__________________ THAJ0KA ![]() 95 E36 - 318TDS |
| |
| ||||
| What happened here? I replied like 10 days ago. My reply is gone...... Oh well, Dynamat Raammat E-dead V-blok DeadMat Secondskin B-quiet Etc.....
__________________ Phil Chartier Carstereopro Forum Sponsor / Vendor DTMPower.net ------------------ New England Manufacturer's Representative Boston Acoustics / McIntosh / Autopage / Panasonic / Planet Audio / Video Stream Technologies / WAAV Technologies / Avidworx / Azentek Mobile Computing For HID's e-mail: mccmotorsports@comcast.net For Tech Support, PM me or post in the car audio section. ------------------ |
| |||
| In the pro audio world we use a device called the rattler. It is basically just a frequncy generator that goes from 20 Hz to 1kHz. There is a dial on there that you can sweep back and forth in order to test cabinets at different frequencies to lsten to things suh as port noises and busted cabinets. Or to look for troubling noises in a room like a cieling panel or some such. Because not all vibrations occur at all frequencies. My suggestion is to get a test CD with sine sweeps. These are pretty common. They will have White noise, pink noise, sine sweeps sound stage tests etc. It is hard to test a system issue with music. It is too transient. If you get a CD (or just play music) and feel around your shelf. Press it in different areas and locate the noise. It might be a loose fastener. A trick I do though is say you have a point of contact that is troublesome (ie shelf to fender wall or whatever) get you an inner tube for a bycycle tire and cuts pieces out of it to make gaskets and fit them between fastening points. Anywhere that there is a contact making noise stick rubber in it. That often works. Also sometimes applying some white lithium grease between contact points can help to. This is the white stuff that you often see in the strikers in your door. Any auto parts store have that. Costs a couple of bucks, pounds euros whatever. |
| |||
| I had the same problem in my 5'er. 1100wrms to a pair of 10's will do that =P I found it was the actual parcel shelf/brake light making all the noise. You can put a strip of foam along the rear of the shelf to fix this. You don't want to sound deaden the rear shelf... I will often talk about the "BMW CURSE" and this referes to the parcel shelf and behind the rear seats. I'll have some pics soon of how I ridded that curse and sealed my ports and subs to the cabin for maximum bass. |