Voltage Stabilizer

[Secret Spider]

my interior and headlights are dimming when ever my system is thumping/....
would this device help me?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...924282243&rd=1

[padingtonbare]

What you need is a stiffening capicitor. Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

[raceyBMW]

A capacitor is definately the way to go. Rule of thumb is like .5 farad for every 500 watts of system max ratings. 1 farad is most popular. Make sure it comes with charging resistor and directions, cause tehre are special rules on how to initially charge them. Putting this in will most likely help the problem, if not a new high capacity alternator would be needed.

[carstereopro]

First, a cap is a crutch, a voltage regulator will not work in high amperage situations.

1-What you want to do is make sure you have the proper gauge power and ground leads to your amp. Depending on wattage, you may need to upgrade the wire to something thicker.

2-Upgrade the power and ground leads to your alternator and chassis ground. (allows for proper flow of power throughout the vehicle's chassis)

3-make sure you have the biggest capacity battery in your cat to begin with. (if your light dim, it means the battery cannot keep up with the draw, and the alternator his playing catch-up)

4-if everything else is done, Add a capacitor of proper size, 1 farad per 500w/rms is a safe rule of thumb, but the more the better.

5-if problem persistes, upgrade alternator to the biggest you can afford/fit, (this will hurt your cars performance since it will take more engine power to create more electrical power.)

6-Add more storage, (a second battery with an isolator)

Those are the steps that a professional shop will reccommend as well.

__________________________________________________ _
My name is carsteropro for a reason, I'm the 12v manufacturer's rep for Sony, MTX, XTANT, Coustic, Blackmore, Streetwires, and Soundgate for New England, 13 years experience in 12v mobile electronics. See my system in my gallery.

[///02bmw325i///]

i had the same problem. i have a JL Audio 250/1 Monoblock amp and when ever my subs hit, my headlights would just go so dim. my guages would do it too. my ac also would not pump air regardless of how i set it. so i upgraded my wire size to 4 guage wire. i had a cap on it but it wasnot charged. so i took the cap out. just try upgrading your wire. it worked for me

[KIllerGP]

guys guys guys, u all have it wrong, lol, i currently run (2) 13.5" JL W6V2 with a PPI 1500.1 Class D Mono at 1 ohm and a 300.2 pushing Boston Acoustic Rally Components, and i have a massive 300AMP fuse connected to a 20Farad Capacitor Bank with 2 built in Distru Blocks, all the guy/girl needs is a small cap and new altenator(around 180 COLD CRANKING AMPS)...done

[carstereopro]

Killer- I hope you are not serious? I think you are joking. but anyways, here is a little explaination.

small cap=shit

alternators do not produce cold cranking amps, they are rated at maximum load output amperage. Most alternators do not produce 30% of their rated output at idle rpms.

Cost of a good quality high amperage alternator can run over $500.00, and most of them need to be run higher than 2500rpm to reflect 75% of their rated output.

Batteries have cold cranking amperage ratings.

By definition a battery's cold cranking amp rating is its rated prolonged cranking output ability in a cold state, or the amperage output capability to start in a cold state

if you measure a battery's output during discharge, the amperage can maintain a higher output level in warmer temp. thats why they rate them in the cold. (also the fact a car starts harder when cold, so current draw is higher)

----------------------------------------------------
My name is carsteropro for a reason, I'm the 12v manufacturer's rep for Sony, MTX, XTANT, Coustic, Blackmore, Streetwires, and Soundgate for New England, 13 years experience in 12v mobile electronics. See my system in my gallery.

[KIllerGP]

actually, my altenator costs 700$ and rated at 220 CCA from Ohio Alternators, and yes everything i listed is in my car including the 20Farad cap CCA(cold cranking amps) is the output at 1500rpm's

[carstereopro]

I give up.

I obviously have no idea what the fuck I'm talking about. I guess I better quit my job. Do you wanna be the New England sales representative for 8 different car audio/video/accessory manufacturers? I bet you'd do a better job than me.
























wtf? Anyone agree with me?

[carstereopro]

Oh by the way, its Ohio Generators, not Ohio Alternators, and just for your records, They suck, I've had customers who blew 2 of them.

I have a local guy who built 12 alternators for my shop and a local SPL team called Team 420. His alternators are in seven vehicles that hold several IDBL, USAC, DB Drag and Slap world records.

And he charges 1/2 the price.