Ideal Subwoofer Box material 5/8" or 3/4" MDF?

[SouthernBimma85]

I am wondering was is more ideal of a subwoofer box material, 5/8" MDF or 3/4" MDF? I have 5/8" MDF at my disposal but I am wondering if I should opt for the 3/4"?

[Jahkesh]

3/4 is optimal.

Depending on how much you brace the box or how much output your drivers have, 5/8 might be fine.

[///02bmw325i///]

3/4 is good. use that if you can

[DJTrevLuv]

Kinda depends on the size of the woofer you're building the box for. For 8" speakers and up I'd use 3/4".

Check out JL's web site about building strong boxes :

http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/boxdesign/index.html

[OldSkoolBmw]

Maybe I'm missing it but building a box that a tank can drive over is nice but how much loss in quality is there from 5/8" to 3/4" or even 3/8" ... The heavy stuff is nice but a 250lb box for one sub like that JL link would lead you to want to make.. I mean that's just a bit excessive.. although I haven't seen any boxes blow up in a trunk yet either...

[DJTrevLuv]

Their recomendations are a bit excessive, but they don't know if you plan on running 100 watts or 1000 watts to your subs. So they tell you to design the box extra beefy. I've built many a box and have never used crazy internal bracing, just made a sealed chamber for each driver. I use 1-5/8" drywall screws and use them every 2-3" on center.

I really depends on the woffers and how much power you're going to give them. If you plan on using (2) 8" and giving them 125 watts each, you could probably get away with a box made of 5/8". If you use (2) 15" and give them 500 watts each you will most likely make the box explode.

It's a little easier to build a box with 3/4" too. Since you have more width, you have more room for error when pre-drilling. If you use 5/8" you need to drill you're pilot holes perfectly parallel, otherwise when you screw the box together it may split.

But it's up to you. If you want a box made of 5/8", go for it.

Trev

[kesslerbmw]

I always use 3/4 and i brace it where i can as well inside, you may consider using the 5/8 and bracing it. I take the material and make 2 like 4 inch wide strips the length of the height and width, then glue and srew them together and put them it. The reason for the thick material in the first place is to make the box sides to have less give in them. When the sides bow im and out even moving the smallest little bit makes you loose sound because it is being obsorbed by the wood but by bracing it it makes it much for the sides to bow out under large loads. It actually works, i could actually hear a little bit of a difference. But who know it could of been in my head, some guy at the local high end audio store told me about the trick, and I honestly think it helped, i did have a lage span aross the back off the bock like many people do. Who really know you'd have to have a decible reader to really know but hey its worth a try huh.

[kesslerbmw]

I guess they talk about it in that article but i do think it works, as well as making the box strong. I feel retarted.

[ESP]

3/4 is definately recommended. Often I will build a box with a 1 1/2 (2 3/4 pieces glued together) face where the woofers are mounted. The key as stated before is braching and ensuring that the enclosure is sturdy, well sealed and well braced.

[RayMan]

So ESP, what do have in your cab for an enclosure?

[ESP]

Originally Posted by RayMan

So ESP, what do have in your cab for an enclosure?

Nothing... I was planning on building 2 fiberglass enclosures in the cavities behind the rear seats for some JLs. Amps I was planning on using what I have laying around, either some older PPI Art Series, or some Zapco Comps or Zapco Studios. I have some Alpine Digital Processors as well so I was carefully planning out the system.

Not sure if I am going to keep the Cab right now so I am holding off.