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Originally Posted by Darien28  I've done it, no problems. however, if you do it, you'll either be too lean on one end or the other. I suggest lean on the low RPM range, and richer up top.
Ideally, you should run a piggyback to tune it correctly. I believe there is one narrow year range of M30 engines that used motronic 1.0, but the AFM still used a 6-pin connector, so you would need to swap the internals for this to work.
as for tuning, you can initially just play wiht the toothed wheel inside the AFM to adjust the spring tension and you should be able to get it to idle and respond ideally. (blip throttle a bit and see how engine responds). ideally you want it to blip up without any hesitation, and then return to a solid idle.
but back to your issues with bogging... you may want to just adjust the spring tension in your current AFM to see if that helps out at all. springs weaken over time, might want to just tighten it a notch or so. try that first... |
Adjusting the spring pressure will help a bit, but the biggest step that everyone misses with this mod is swapping out the internal circuit board. If you test both AFM's with a multimeter you'll see the resistance values between the AFMs are waaaaaaaaaaay different, and if you don't swap the board over from the old AFM your Motronic is getting signals that aren't even close to what they should be.
As for the Split Second conversion, I'm not really a fan. I spoke to one person a long time ago when it first came out that said his engine (M20B25) ran like poo-poo with it and he could never get it tuned right. I personally put a MAF conversion on an S14 and the dyno showed us a gain of a whopping 1hp, with a LOSS of 1 ft/lb of torque and a power graph with more peaks and valleys than a mountain ridge.
I still think you need to find a good, known working M20 AFM and test it in your car.