The Stewart Water Pump:
Mike Radowski Diff bracket:
The tabs for the intercooler mounting:
The intercooler template:
Finished the modifying of the rear fenders for some huge meats in the rear. So with the spring out we tested the car under full bottom out and we still had an inch of clearance. That was with lifting the car off the jack stand in the one corner. If the tire was ever able to make it through the bump stop it would still hit smooth metal and nothing would get hurt. If you wanted to do this yourself I would suggest using 18 gauge steel with a 120 volt Mig welder with argon gas. Also the most important element was an auto-darkening helmet borrowed from one of our good friends (thanks Bob). This fender is so strong it almost feels like a lift point on the car.
The 50lb injectors:
To do the fenders we had to know how high we could cut them with the Reiger flares. They were previously installed on the car so we knew how high we could go. You could do the same thing by tracing the outline of the fender on the car and moving your cut line 3/4" down from that outline.
We had three pieces of metal to tie back into once the fenders were cut. So we basically made puzzle pieces to go in place. Thats why you can see three different weld lines. You cannot put a solid bead on the fender because it is too thin and will warp the body from too much heat. We spaced the tacks 1/8" or less and nothing warped at all. The fenders are really strong now.
We used 18 gauge sheet metal, a small 4" cut off wheel, a sanding disk, and a small Lincoln MIG welder with the argon/co2 gas hooked up, .30 copper coated wire, and a auto-darkening helmet. FYI it was very low budget as far as tools and materials go.
The metal we grafted in place is very solid and flat if the tires were to ever hit it.
To seal the fenders off we will use Krylon primer to keep the rust out, then undercoat to seal off the water from getting in any of the holes that may still be there.
I will have pics of the fenders all sealed up later.
